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I've noticed recently that I have some vibration coming through the brake pedal/steering wheel when braking. After checking my discs I've noticed a 'band' which is a different colour to the rest of the disc all the way around the two front discs. I've done some research and it seems I may have some pad transfer (I'm assuming from a track day I did towards end last year).

Has anyone else experienced this and what is the best way to remove it? I spoke to Neil at Litchfields when I was booking my service and he mentioned I can sand the disc down but I'm a little unsure.

It does seem to have gotten better over the last couple weeks so is it possible it will just remove itself over time? I've attached some pics below to show what I'm talking about. The actual discs/pads seem to be fine with plenty of life in them.




 

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How many miles on the discs & pads? OEM parts don't like track days that much ...

As long as it won't be dangerous (you'll have to decide based on the above and from what you can see), try bedding in the pads again. You may find that will help.
 

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How did the wheel nuts go rusty lol, I've never seen that on a GT-R before.

The discs look fine to me, the blueish/black is heat discolouration, but it's not unusual on these heavy cars. I don't know how many miles those discs have done, but I couldn't see any signs of cracking around the cross drilled holes, which is very very common on stock discs, so they look fine to me.

As said above, prob worth looking at the pads as they have been known to crack, but light surface cracks are normal, and if okay bed in the pads again (15 stops of 0.6G from 70 to 10mph, then cool for 3 miles at 40-50mph).

And I would first check to see that any wheel balancing weights haven't fallen off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wtf at the state of your wheel nuts!

completely unreleated, but get it sorted, for shame :D
:chuckle: I did wonder if someone would mention that. I only noticed it when I took these photos, it's on the to do list! ;)
 

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How did the wheel nuts go rusty lol, I've never seen that on a GT-R before.

The discs look fine to me, the blueish/black is heat discolouration, but it's not unusual on these heavy cars. I don't know how many miles those discs have done, but I couldn't see any signs of cracking around the cross drilled holes, which is very very common on stock discs, so they look fine to me.

As said above, prob worth looking at the pads as they have been known to crack, but light surface cracks are normal, and if okay bed in the pads again (15 stops of 0.6G from 70 to 10mph, then cool for 3 miles at 40-50mph).

And I would first check to see that any wheel balancing weights haven't fallen off.
I have no idea lol. Think I'll treat her to some new ones though as it does look a bit pikey!

Good point re wheel weights I'll check them. I'll take the pads out and have a look what condition they seem to be in and report back.

I bought the car on 16500 miles last June and it now sits at just over 22000, I'm pretty sure it's still on the stock discs and pads. I was actually pretty surprised how much life still seems to be left in the discs and pads everything considered.
 

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Yep, those brakes look like they've had a fairly easy life, prior to when you bought the car anyway ;)
Aye, clearly I didn't try hard enough on my last track day after everything I've heard about GTR brakes being shot after one session ;)

PS Didn't expect replies at this time in the morning, can't sleep?
 

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Depending on how much pad you have left, you can sand them flat and still reuse them safely. I'd start with getting them off first and having a look, it also look like there may be a stone or grit which come between the pad and the disc.
 

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Imho if these are stock pads and discs after 22k and a track day, I'd bite the bullet and treat the car to new discs and pads all round. Yes it's expensive but if you're wanting to occasionally track the car it'll pay dividends.

You might still have some life in these original pads/discs but I'd be putting much better items on anyways.
 
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If you do plan to change them go for the Alcon discs and pagid pads, the discs work out cheaper than the stock and are better. Litchfields were doing a deal on them a while back, I don't know if it's still on but it's worth asking
 

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If it is cracked disc's one of the main causes is washed no the car and not cleaning the disc's off afterwards.

I.e. Leaving the car to dry straight after washing, which ultimately leads to the pads sticking hard to the disc, requiring a bit of revs to free up(not good for the pads).

Si
 

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If it is cracked disc's one of the main causes is washed no the car and not cleaning the disc's off afterwards.

I.e. Leaving the car to dry straight after washing, which ultimately leads to the pads sticking hard to the disc, requiring a bit of revs to free up(not good for the pads).

Si
I'm sorry but that's nonsense.

Cracked discs comes about from the intense heat cycling during extreme operation. Highly improbable during normal road use but quite common with track day usage.

R35 OEM discs have suffered from cracks originating from around the drilled holes ever since 2009 hence why practically everyone goes aftermarket for their next set as the stock discs and pads and not up to the same standard as the rest of the car.

Washing the car only causes mild surface rusting of the discs which is normal behaviour and will have nothing to do with the OPs scenario.

These discs show high temp discolouration of the rotor surface but in an uneven manner. This usually means there are pad deposits on the discs which not being evenly distributed is causing the juddering.

It's absolutely nothing to do with washing the car.
 
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If you do plan to change them go for the Alcon discs and pagid pads, the discs work out cheaper than the stock and are better. Litchfields were doing a deal on them a while back, I don't know if it's still on but it's worth asking
Or, try the AP discs (two options, slotted or J-hook). The Pagid RS29s are great pads but some prefer Ferodo DS2500s for a car that is mostly used on the road as they give good braking performance with less dust and squealing.

For what it's worth, I use AP J-hooks with Pagid RS29s ...
 
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