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Was hoping you had a portfolio going back 10+ years to see how it’s done.
It’s always a grey area when you have customers asking for estimates etc rather than a realistic figure of what costs are likely to be. And I understand some businesses will adapt their quality of work to suit these ‘estimates’ they give. But from a couple of examples on this thread the work appears not to have been done properly or that the rust is always going to prey on these cars no matter what’s been done to them.
 

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I understand, but the expirience doesnt only come from the years you are in the business it also comes from the employees. Most of people that are into body restorations and metalshaping are between 50 and 60 years old, bin 20-30 years in business. When talking what works or how long it holds you are talking out of their expirience. Also you gain expirience out of project cars, as you work on 50's 60' 70's cars you see how much they detoriorate in those 50-60 years, you see how a design flow holds after 40 years and what it did to the body etc.
 

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That was rumoured about Mercedes in the mid-nineties to early 2000's where you will see some Merc's within that period seem to be quite rusty.
 

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Discussion Starter #846
I can't see how it would make a difference. Surely it's the specification of the metal that's key here rather than the source?
 

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Discussion Starter #848
Sounds like nonsense to me. The principle of recycling is simply to save raw materials, in no way does it mean an inferior product. The manufacturer will have specs and tolerances to meet and that is that.
 

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Discussion Starter #849
Anyway....

The car is on the ramps and Restoration II begins tomorrow!! Engine is coming out again....
 

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Discussion Starter #852
Not more - but the POR15 basically is not up to the job so it's all coming off and we're starting again.
 

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Discussion Starter #855
Actually on close inspection it probably did stop the car getting worse, it just isn***8217;t that well done combined with the por15 not really being very good. We***8217;ve got a lot of fresh surface rust, it***8217;s not pretty but not structural. The stuff that wasn***8217;t done well was cheap fixings and bolts that have basically corroded straight away. They***8217;ll be replaced with stainless this time.

Plan is to remove whole lot.
 

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All the Nismo underside items have crap paint and are painted thin and poorly so start to show surface rust and chip very easlily.
 

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Be careful about mixing stainless with mild steel, and certainly not galvanised steel and stainless bolts, the dissimilar metals corrode quickly, galvanising corrodes much quicker when attached to stainless. You need to use insulating washers on your st st bolts to help prevent bi-metallic corrosion.
Also,you really need to galvanise items that you intend to powder coat, as 1 pin hole through the powder coat will start corroding the steel very quickly as Morgan and TVR found out on their GRP bodied cars.
 
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