Paid £400 only 18 months ago to have the entire underside of my GTR undersealed.
Had it up on a lift yesterday. Half the underseal has disappeared.:chairshot
Not impressed!! How long is this stuff supposed to last? Going by the bit where it's fallen off, it's not a recent thing either.
So need to spend a bit of cash on getting the underside pretty and to find another place to do it again.
Anybody suggest a good place to spend about £2K getting the underside of the car pretty again?
If you don't mind I'm just returning this thread to the original subject. Last weekend I had the underneath of my R33 coated with Dynax anti rust coating. Attached please find piccies. I've had my cars Waxoyled for years now and I think it does work. Dynax is supposedly superior to Waxoyl. I do a yearly inspection and get re-coated as required. Just over half 5 ltr container used.
Some 20 years ago I used to coat my daily driver AE86 in UK with waxoyl all over the underside, plus inside door and panel cavities. Had it for 7 years before moving to Japan in '98 and although it had a few small rust bubbles on one door (where a previous owner had a door skin replaced badly) these never got any worse because of the waxoyl. Most of these rust proofing waxes are very good. I use some aircraft grade stuff from the U.S. on our daily drivers now, well worth investing the time. If most imports had this sort of work done on them when they came in they'd suffer far fewer rust problems - ideally needs to be reallied every year to the chassis though!
Yes I've got a waxoyled MK1 MR2. Anybody who knows these cars know that their Italian steel rots from day one, LOL. Anyway it's an import (in 2000) of a 1987 car, and it is MINT underneath. It's had two applications of waxoyl since import.
I thought waxoyl is supposed to be used for panels and cavities only as people use rubber materital for underneath the chassis? As i thought if waxoyl on underneath only it may get wash away easily?
The stuff I've had on is like a thick coating, ain't no way a bit of road water is going to wash it away. It dries like a thick crust. I'm not saying it's better than a rubberized treatment, only that it has been great on the MR2.
Bitumen or rubberized coatings can seal in electrolytic dirt and allow corrosion to continue.
Waxy coatings can stop corrosion from developing or continuing but need to be reapplied from time to time depending on how much use a vehicle gets.
LOL @tonigmr2 - I used to have Italian MR2's as a student, aka X1/9's.
They were fun but you could stand and watch them rot away before your eyes!
MR2's were a bit better built, probably!
Well I've got myself in a pickle. My MOT ran out at the paintshop, didn't realise until I went to re-tax it. They have an mot place next door but it failed on emissions. Oh yeah faulty lambda, arse! Now I need to transport it to a GTR specialist. Anybody recommend good transporter?
Don't forget you can also drive a car to a booked MOT appointment legally. So if you booked an MOT at or next to your chosen Mechanic (GTR specialist or otherwise) you could just drive it there.
Toni if I its just a lambda, its not a specialist job, a "trusted" garage would be find. I appreciate this might be harder to find than a specialist.:runaway:
You cannot drive your vehicle on the road if the MOT has expired, unless you have booked an MOT and are driving your vehicle to the test centre.
You will need to be able to prove the appointment if stopped by the Police and could be prosecuted if caught driving without an MOT or test appointment.
It's not legal to drive anywhere but to a booked MOT appointment. The appointment would also need to be that day not in a weeks time, that's what I've always believed.
You can book an MOT via the specialist on the day you drive it to them even if they then cancel the MOT and subsequently do the work later before retesting. That way it's all above board: there is a booked MOT which you are driving it to!
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