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Discussion Starter #21
I figured around the £200 mark. Hopefully I should be able to sell my current one for £100, give or take :)
 

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If i was you i would get a set of 86.5mm pistons from R.B Mototsport
the reason for that is if things were to go wrong again.
you can have another go at 87mm.

plus the cylinder bores will not be so thin.

OS Giken have made these one off pistons for R.B Motorsport worth a call.

Just to let everyone know OS Giken make parts for many big tuners in Japan :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Big scratch = 87mm required :(

I think Nengun have the 'Super Suction' kit on their site. I have emailed a question to them about it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
This is the induction kit I have at the moment:



And this is the 'Super Suction' kit (picture from Nengun website):



You can see the Z32 harness adapters in that pic, which is what makes me think that's the kit for the Z32 AFMs. Only thing is, there doesn't seem to be enough pipes and brackets and stuff in the second pic. Do I need to hold on to the curved metal pipes (and brackets) in the first picture in order to fit the 'super suction' kit? :confused:

Can anyone running Z32 AFMs help?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Nobody knows?

Someone is interested in buying my induction kit, but I'm kinda stalling at the moment because I need to know if I have to keep any of it !
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So that new kit is everything I need then - I dont need to retain any part of the original induction kit?

That's good :D
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Further confusion ! :confused:

The part number on Nengun's website is actually for the D-Jetro version of the induction kit - no AFMs at all!!

I mailed them an enquiry, will report back on what they say.
 

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I have done a similar rebuild to you on my engine (BNR32) consisting of polished crank, shotpeened conrods, Arias 86.5mm pistons, lots of head porting and polishing and HKS 2530 turbos.

Your rebuild sounds good, but theres a few things I would include. If you just use the car as every day driving and are using the standard oil pump, I would fit the N1 spring in the relief valve. This is the only difference between the standard pump and the N1 one, and it holds a higher constant oil pressure. This will ensure everything in the engine remains nice and slippery. I dont see the need for an aftermarket higher flowing pump if you will be keeping to the standard rev limit (standard rods do not seem to like extra rpm). Second thing is either Tomei or Jun oil sump baffles, its been explained millions of times here and on other forums as to why its a good idea to put these in.

If youre going to be doing occasional track days I would also look into getting the Tomei oil restrictors for the head. Common problem with the RB26's is they pump too much oil into the head, and under constant high rpm you can starve the bottom end of oil. These dont cost too much, and are easy to fit. Id also look at putting in a set of ARP 2000 conrod bolts if its going to see continual high rpm (like it would on a track). The rod bolts and oil restrictors will cost no more than $1000 (and thats in AUD sorry, dont know what that would work out too in pounds) and are cheap insurance.

As for camshafts, I ran around for 10,000kms on standard cams at 1.5 bar. I fitted a set of Tomei Poncam 260 in/ex camshafts and camgears, and the car now goes harder on 1.25 bar than they did on 1.5. The car also picked up alot of mid range torque it was lacking before and goes better right across the rev range (it used to run out of puff above 7500rpm, but now pulls hard to red line).

Just a few suggestions :)
 

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Discussion Starter #31
That's some really good input - thanks :)

ARP bolts have been ordered :D

The oil restrictors sound good to me, but I cant find them anywhere :confused:

I may well be going for the Trust sump extension and baffle kit, not decided yet.

Cams will have to wait, as I dont have a lot of money left and I dont see them as necessary items at this point in time.
 

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Pikey said:
The oil restrictors sound good to me, but I cant find them anywhere :confused:
Jeff,

I would imagine that all the main tuners will stock these, I think that I've even got a spare one here somewhere... Let me know if you can't get hold of one and I'll try to find it for you.
 

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You really should overhaul your cooling system if you are interested in realiability and longevity at 500hp+ (although most people typically put this down the list against outright power). This includes an aftermarket radiator, thermo, water pump, hosing, and variable fan controller. IMHO, these are preventative measures that are well worth it in such a build up and at the time of doing a new engine.

Cya O!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Some things to update.

Mocal relocation kit and oil cooler purchased (well, I havent sent the cheque off yet but I will do tomorrow), because it was a good price. I dont plan on installing the cooler just yet though - want to see how oil temps go first of all :)

Apexi Super Suction Kit ordered from Prospec as they're having a sale :D

Wiseco pistons, Cometic head gasket, ARP bolts and GReddy boost controller winging their way over from the states as we speak :D

Decided against getting the fuel pressure regulator straight away, as Im not sure how to set it, so I'm going to get the car running on the standard one first, then upgrade later if necessary.

Carbon-fibre bonnet arrived and installed, as per my other thread :D

Went for the Walbro 255lph fuel pump from Bren at Apex - £95. If Id have sorted it out sooner I could have got it for £75 but there you go :rolleyes:

700cc SARD injectors DO fit in the standard fuel rail, but they are indeed a tight fit, and need a good dollop of Vaseline to help them in. Despite this, Ive still managed to get one of them stuck :rolleyes:

My lambda sensors dont fit in the HKS elbows, so Im getting two new lambda sensors too - cant be a bad thing :)

Oh I got a Nismo gearknob too, which is probably my favourite bit :D :D
 

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Pikey said:
Some things to update.

Mocal relocation kit and oil cooler purchased (well, I havent sent the cheque off yet but I will do tomorrow), because it was a good price. I dont plan on installing the cooler just yet though - want to see how oil temps go first of all :)
On mine with the 2530's (no heatsheilds either or thermal wrap/hpc either) the water temp was fine, oil sat on around 90 degrees day in day out with a bit of spirited driving. With the camshafts its on about 92.

EDIT: Those oil temps are just for cruising around with a hit here and there. If youre constantly on high boost/high rpm they will sky rocket to 110+ pretty quickly. If this happens, back off and let it cool down for a bit. Are you also going to look into putting the N1 spring in the oil pump relief valve? Keeps much higher pressure when the oil temps start to get warm, which can only be a good thing :)

Pikey said:
Decided against getting the fuel pressure regulator straight away, as Im not sure how to set it, so I'm going to get the car running on the standard one first, then upgrade later if necessary.
Standard regulator should be ok, I had mine running on 1.5bar boost with standard GTR pump in tank lifting to 2L surge tank and Bosch 044 pumping from surge tank. Works like a charm (although my regulator has had the little mod done to it to raise pressure a bit, tap the head of it in and it compresses/tightens the screw. Sounds dodgy but still hasnt failed me and the cars been running for over 12 months.

Sounds like its all coming along nicely, you will have lots of fun when the car is done :)
 

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Hi Pikey,pretty nice list you got there

In my opinion ARIAS pistons are pretty bloody tough

Why not add aftermarket conrods?

Ive seen standard GTR conrods bend and twist at constantly thrashed 450rwhp
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Another update

The crank and all associated bits and bobs has gone away to be balanced. Conrods are being lightened and balanced with the new ARP bolts too.

OS Giken twin plate clutch purchased - thank you Steve @ RodBell Motorsport :smokin:

Engine crane borrowed - thank you SkylineUSA :smokin:

I am getting Maynards to supply the bearings, so that'll hopefully eliminate the chance of me getting one of the tolerances wrong. He commented that it looked like a couple of them were tight when I did it myself last time, so best to avoid that happening again :eek:

In a week or two I'll pick up the engine assembly, with all the important up-and-down and round-and-round bits already done - should then be a simple matter of bolting everything else on :D

Not far to go now :D :D :D
 

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glad to hear it mate!!!

Im already taking bets on how long it will be before it is off the road again!!!!

We will have to go to Avon Park once its up and running, be a good comparison, mine and yours!!
 

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I take it you dont have to get rid of yours now luffy - hadnt heard anything from you so I guess this is the case.

Jeff - Maynards skimmed my head for my rover 214... seemed to do a good job. Are they also doing your balancing / lightening?

Have you any experiance of them before?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Balancing / lightening / boring / honing / regrinding the crank / all the head work ;)

The rotational balancing of the crank is done elsewhere, but all the rest is done there.

Mark Maynard is a sound chap. His background is in building A-series race engines as far as I know. I would recommend them, yes :D

My brother suggested them, as that's where Bristol Street Ford in Stroud send all their skimming work etc
 
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