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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so, after a four month wait, US$5-6000 in parts, and $2400 in labor, my car is done. Tomorrow I will go pick it up, and I'm wondering how I ought to drive it. It's a '91 GTR, which now has:

a '93 RB26 long block, taken apart and reassembled three times for various reasons, mostly to make sure everything was ok (including that "crank pin" thing), and standard turbos, which however check out to be in excellent shape with no leaks or shaft play

N1 oil and N1 water pumps
Tomei gaskets and timing belt
new cam tensioner and idler
Nismo fuel pressure regulator
Power FC Boost Controller
new front driveshafts
new brake pads (Endless Super Sports M)
new Coppermix twin-plate clutch and Nismo clutch pivot
HKS transmission oil (dunno if it's any good, but it cost me $250(!)

and general other odds and ends, basically anything we thought needed fixing or replacing old but still working parts.

The engine itself isn't new, so is there really a break-in period? Or should there be a break in period as the new added parts get used to working with the replacement engine block? Obivously, I'm both excited with getting my car back and going to 1.1bar boost with my PFC and new boost controller, but at the same time I'm terrified of blowing anything up again - there's no recourse if that happens than to part out the car and take a loss of thousands of dollars, all for a few days of Skyline ownership (I've only driven the car ten days out of four months ownership!)

What would you do?
 

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I'd run it in personally, better safe than sorry.
 

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I would break in but only for a few hunderd miles unless you have honed the bore or changed bearings etc. I would also keep an eye on the oil pressure and water temps to ensure the new pumps are working as they should.

Good luck
 

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I would ensure that the person mapping the Power Fc knew what they were doing and had mapped skylines before.

I would also be very worried about the Crank Pin thing you posted ealier, unless you fully understand WTF he was going on about.

Also why did it take him 3 goes to build an engine that works properly. That would worry me
 

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I wouldnt go above 1bar with std turbos unless they are rebuilt with steel internals.
 

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Only need to run in if rings and rebore/hone has been carried out. If they have, you need to speak to the person who built it to determine what kind of finish and ring he used otherwise you could compromise the engine by running in incorrectly.
 

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Again i cant work out why the engine has been stripped and built 3 times, and you havnt got forged pistons, metal head gasket etc. For £5,000 you could build a very reliable engine pushing a good 500bhp with the labour of $2400 added on top.

I no what i would have done straight away and thats exactly what i'm doing to mine.

But hope it all runs well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tomei metal gaskets I've got, but I ran out of money when it came to internals, plus I didn't know the mechanic was going to take the thing apart so many times so I didn't think that could be even worked into the rebuild schedule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would also keep an eye on the oil pressure and water temps to ensure the new pumps are working as they should.
I got a brand new oil pressure sender installed for that very purpose...are the water temp senders generally reliable on the RB26?
 

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hi mate, as for running in, i built mine with forgies n1 oil/wtaer etc.did 60 miles with steady .5 boost then. took it to 1 bar and went to totb @ elvington. did not compete obviously but ran the car in quite hard 4000 rpm max and 1 bar on 25/30,s engine has now done 2000 miles no problems.. i think the running in idea is a bit over the top personally as andy ( r32 combat) just my views..bernie.
 

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There is the theory that running in is best to give it full throttle after you have warmed the car up to full oprating temp
limit revs to 6k if your worried

it helps the rings bed in giving a better seal

nothing else should fail if its been screwed togeather properly
dont use synthetic oil on a freash build a nice mineral thats ok with turbos for the first 100-500 miles then go synthetic

Darbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well, first thoughts:

Although I've been given a fairly well tuned GTS-T (HKS turbo, set up for drift), there is nothing, nothing like a GTR. Man, I missed that car something awful.

The Nismo Coppermix twinplate feels pretty sweet. Clutch effort is about the same as the stock clutch (not running a clutch slave cylinder), and it's slightly grabby up top but it's new and it's a twinplate. I spend a LOT of time driving like a grandma and the clutch was pretty cooperative - stiff effort but controllable and I only stalled out twice :p My tune won't be able to push the limits of this clutch, not for awhile anyways (money and parts ya know)

I really like the Nismo solid shifter. It's not much shorter, but it's solid. Great feel, snicks into each gear very clearly and definitively with just a touch more effort, but with no ambiguity. Switched to a Momo leather shift knob versus the old Razo all-metal, as the shift knob does tend to get hot :p

I've put in an Apexi Boost Controller and although accessing the boost settings is easy, the car still seems to boost only to .7 bar. Not sure what Apexi means by "self-learning" boost control - does that mean I've got to drive it around and the car will eventually adjust to the new boost limit? In any event, the car is quick but doesn't seem to be as fast as it was, although I'll have to do timed runs to quantify that, and that means hard launches, which I'm not too up on doing yet.

I used to have eight displays running on my FC commander - now there's one: knock. Also have it set so that the engine check light only flashes as a knock warning. So lots of things to warn me about detonation. Under boost I got a couple spikes on the knock bar but it didn't trigger the engine check light. On a couple third gear pulls, when I had fiddled with the boost duty value (more to make the boost more responsive, less if you get boost too quickly or if it spikes), I did get the dreaded red flashing light, and I got off the gas FAST!! I'm running 99RON gas, the brand that's supposedly the closest thing to Jap fuel one can get in Korea. Not sure yet if the car feels slower because it *is* slower, or if I'm just not pushing it hard like I had been.

The HKS transmission oil did not cure my 4th gear crunch - double clutching when downshifting into 4th eliminates the crunch, and a nice fat one second pause between 3rd and 4th also avoids the crunch. I guess I better start saving for new transmission parts fast!

The oil pressure gauge gives a consistent reading now, thanks to the new Z32 sender I put in. Steady 4bar pressure when running. Tomei oil orifice was installed.

Irritatingly, the mechanic couldn't figure out how to install the JUN oil pump collar and left it out. My gasket overhaul kit was missing the water pump gasket, so he also left out the N1 pump I supplied. I've got cambelt tensioners arriving soon, so that'll get taken care of then. But as far as the oil drive - going to have to sweat that I guess, until I'm at a point where I have to pull the crankshaft, at which point I guess I can install the drive collar.

There's an expensive looking thing in the right corner of the wngine bay with lots of hydraulic lines coming out of it - the ABS module. The mechanic says mine is on the way out, and could die at any moment. How'd he figure that out, and how expensive is that expensive looking thing??

Overall though, it's great to have my car back. Took some pics and will try to take a couple short vids as well and post em up. I'm still working on collecting stereo parts - no sound system now but I've got my Polk/Momo amps ready to rock :) I noticed the exhaust can take a silencer, and I gave it a whirl - and the Fujitsubo exhaust *was* noticably quieter. But are there any bad sides to reducing the exhaust diameter from 3+ inches down to one? As in, the backpressure causing stress on the turbos, etc....more than just a simple loss of power.

My PFC says PFC on the box, but it's software version 4.53 or something, so I guess it's not a Pro. Which means the BeeR rev limiter I have, I guess I gotta use then - I really want to have ignition-cut rev limiting versus fuel cut, it just seems better for the engine.

I guess all I need now is a really good map to extract the most power out of what I've got at the moment.
 
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