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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Running a stock block / stock head, what is the maximum safe limit for boost? From my understanding anything above 1.3 bar is dangerous for the heads? The stock internals can handle up to 500hp?

To compensate for this problem, by installing a metal head gasket (which I am assuming is alot of 'labour' = expensive) would this solve the boost problem or only push it on to something else?

I am looking for the upper limit of the stock engine with bolt on mods. I don't want to BLOW UP anything.

My list which is due to go in to the car early next year. The parts are with me, just waiting for a few items before a tune.

HKS GTSS x 2
HPI dump pipes
HKS R Type intercooler
Trust Oil cooler
Exhaust + front pipe
Power FC
Z32 AFM x2
TOMEI 260/260 9.15 cams
SARD Fuel Pump
Sard Fuel press. reg
SARD fuel rail
SARD 800cc injectors
HKS EVC 4
 

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What your proposing is fine stock internals in good condition will handle nearly 600hp at the fly wheel if not over revved, If valve guides are worn it would be worth a refresh, metal head gasket would not go a miss. You should expect around 440 t0 470 hp and app 400 lb/ft torque at the hubs. Total loss on hp through drive train is app 85 hp. Running 1.3 bar peaking at 1.4 on full boost.
You will need at twin plate clutch. This will make an excelent drive. if you can loose the AFM's it would help the set up.
 

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The stock internals can handle up to 500hp?
Over here in the states there is a black R33 GT-R owned by one of the Modified Magazine editors that made 838 rear wheel horsepower (car was dynoed with a 100% rear torque split to get power down safely) with headwork, cams and race gas on a stock shortblock. The car was rebuilt after several 10 second passes, on it's last pass it spun a bearing but still managed to make a sub 10.5 run. Another company, SP Engineering, made 710.5 all wheel horsepower with a 100% OEM Nissan block from the oil pan to the plug cover and race gas. IIRC they drove it around for a few years like that before doing a rebuild just to push more power.

We've also got several RB25DET and RB26DETT powered cars (imported GTS-Ts, GTTs, our 240SXs) here that are running as much as 630 rear wheel on OEM shortblocks some even on pump gas. I even know of a local guy with a sleeper RPS13 with a stock RB26 and a T51R SPL BB making 500+ on pump (93 RON). Car looks like garbage, mismatched wheels, it's 3 different colors (if you can call rust a color :chuckle: ), etc but he's beaten everything from Supras to sprayed Vipers and untuned at that! :chuckle:

The RB engine can take most anything you throw at it if you start with a healthy one that's been properly maintained. - Just Kan's 2 cents (pence to you folk :chairshot )

One of these days you guys are going to have to explain to me your obsession with flywheel and/or hub numbers though. Over here, if it's not being put to the pavement, it's not being used, thus no one cares. Wheel horsepower is king! :p
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your response! I was asking as I don't want to extract too much power from my setup listed above. I would turn the boost down and tune it conservatively to ensure I don't blow up anything!
 

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American Horses are smaller,so they need some more compared to European Horses.

:wavey:
 

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One of these days you guys are going to have to explain to me your obsession with flywheel and/or hub numbers though. Over here, if it's not being put to the pavement, it's not being used, thus no one cares. Wheel horsepower is king! :p
LOL! That is my biggest source of confusion on these boards as well. I am over in the states myself and no one cares at all about anything but WHP. However over here they LOVE to talk about bhp and what not. Always made me chuckle. lol.


-Sayajin
 

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Over here in the states there is a black R33 GT-R owned by one of the Modified Magazine editors that made 838 rear wheel horsepower (car was dynoed with a 100% rear torque split to get power down safely) with headwork, cams and race gas on a stock shortblock. The car was rebuilt after several 10 second passes, on it's last pass it spun a bearing but still managed to make a sub 10.5 run. Another company, SP Engineering, made 710.5 all wheel horsepower with a 100% OEM Nissan block from the oil pan to the plug cover and race gas. IIRC they drove it around for a few years like that before doing a rebuild just to push more power.
Hey, do you have a link to the SP Engineering car? All I can find is the finished set-up with 2.8L HKS stroker.
 

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I'll have my car back on the dyno within the next 2 weeks. My block is completely stock with only internal engine mods are HKS 264 cams. It's a crated N1 long block from head to panm which now has about 8 thousand miles or less.

Due to popular demand we will run as much BHP (see post what will be your next engine rebuild). This is a daily driven car and I am looking to lay down 700BHP on the next time out, last time we dynoed her at 599 WHP (Dyno jet numbers), corrected she laid down about 530BHP.

I'll get some pics up on the media thread with the new turbos on her.

John
 

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I am looking for the upper limit of the stock engine with bolt on mods. I don't want to BLOW UP anything.

Great isn`t it, you want a safe set up and everyone starts telling you of hugh horsepower:confused:
I think your just about there though, but i would recommend an intercooler hard pipe kit, metal head gasket (needed for anything over 1.2 bar) and as others have said twin plate clutch.
One other consideration would be sump extension or baffle plates.
 

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interestign the RB's are being pushed harder adn harder on the stock bottom end... perhaps the 2JZ isn't the only jap engine that is tough? be interested to hear of your results John (JAS3113). I was always amazed at how 10 years ago 250rwkw (or 335rwhp) was the limit for a stock RB engine....
 
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