[Jonnyspeedbump]

Did a search which suggested it may be coilpacks/ingniter but here's the symptoms if any of you kind folks can confirm or otherwise.

When starting the engine from cold it will pulse very rythmically with seemingly no effect on the rev counter. This used to stop once the engine was properly warmed but now it does it all the time. In the last couple of weeks the car has started driving worse, feels like it's missing on two cylinders. It's extremely sluggish and misfires almost constantly.
I've checked the spark plugs which are the standard ones (6's) and they all seem ok with no huge colour difference between them and they don't look sooty or burnt. No smoke from exhaust. The car is guzzling fuel... must be getting about 8miles to the gallon!
I've had a check for loose boost hoses as at first it felt like boost leak but all seem ok.
There is a definate misfire at 1100rpm when revving the car gently, the needle jumps back to around 950rpm.


Are splitfires the only way to go to replace the standard coil packs and igniter?

I had thought about cutting a hole at the front of the sparkplug cover and venting cool air from the viscous fan, it does get bloody hot in there!

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jonny

 

[leggus]

Could be a dodgy injector, can you smell fuel in the car?

Happened to me a while ago, car was running like a bag, injector seals on 2 and 4 were leaking.

 

[Jonnyspeedbump]

Hmm no fuel smell particularly mate.... had a look at the injectors and they're not leaking (.... although it is possible to rotate them slightly axialy, this ok?).
Thanks anyway mate!

 

[fabianGTR34]

have you tried disconnecting the lambda sensor harnesses? easy to check, if it cures the problem then your sensors are dead.

 

[kismetcapitan]

run a fat earth wire (like car audio size) from the ignitor directly to the negative terminal on your battery.

 

[Jonnyspeedbump]

thanks for the advice chaps. Checked the lambda sensors by unplugging them from the loom and taking the car for a run but it made no difference whatsoever to how the car runs... surely that can't be right?
Haven't tried the direct earth yet Kismet but will do tomorrow.
I took the air filters off and the afm's were pretty well coated in a thin oily residue. I used Maplin switch cleaner spray to clean them. The car seemed to run a bit better after this but still misfiring.
Fitted colder plugs, BKR8IX ngk iridiums, but this made the car feel slightly worse...
Coilpack rubbers are not split but I wound some insulating tape round them just to be sure.

Car's running about 320bhp I would guess: Hybrid intercooler, filters, straight through exhaust. Haven't turned the boost up but I'd guess the better engine breathing will increase the boost a bit over standard.

PS. Merry CHristmas all!

 

[fabianGTR34]

If the o2 and AFM are ok, Then I should say:
Check the CAS by swapping it with a friend's
Same for the Ignitor unit,
If that both doesn't cure the problem you can try to swap the ECU, to check if that isn't broken..

Good luck

Merry christmas too!! to everyone

 

[ExScoobyT]

`Checked the lambda sensors by unplugging them from the loom and taking the car for a run but it made no difference whatsoever to how the car runs... surely that can't be right?` - correct! Sounds like one of the hego`s is dead.

 

[kismetcapitan]

I ordered NTK 12mm titania HEGOs for the Z32. I will know shortly if they work with the R32. If not...I'm only out $30 each.

 

[Jonnyspeedbump]

Sounds like one of the hego`s is dead.

I'm guessing a Hego is a lambda sensor? What exactly do the lambdas do? I think it has something to do with fueling, am I right?
Is there a good aftermarket upgrade to go for on these?
Kismet, let me know how you get on with the z32 ones. I tried the earth on the igniter but it made no difference . Ah well, at least it's something else to cross off the list.
Cheers,
Jonny

 

[Jonnyspeedbump]

Just did an ecu check and got some starnge results...

With the Lambdas connected the ecu showed fault 34:- knock sensor.
With the Lambdas disconnected it showed fault 55:- all ok.

 

[kismetcapitan]

yep, a HEGO is a narrowband lambda - the ECU uses both of them to correct fueling. I took a brief look at my car today but didn't try to install my new HEGOs as my turbo elbows haven't arrived yet. But an eyeball check, and the ones I ordered do look the same - three wire titania sensors.

 

[my gtr]

gtr problems

i have a 1992 r32 gtr and am having the same problems that you are having with your gtr. i just wanted to know if you have fixed it.

thanks mygtr

 

[Jonnyspeedbump]

MyGTR, not fixed yet but have come to the conclusion, with the help of the tech gurus, that it's iether lambda sensors or knock sensors that are faulty.
Have you tried an ecu diagnostic yourself? It's easy to do.

Can someone please confirm where the knock sensors are for me (there are two yes?). I seem to remember one of them at least being on the inlet side of the block below the plenum.

J

 

[Jonnyspeedbump]

PROBLEM SOLVED ....... and now a new one !

I got lucky for once! My problem was caused by the front knock sensor having wiggled itself off. I remember now that I had one spare wire clip (you know like the ones that hold the injector plugs) left over after doing the rebuild, d'oh! And what a bugger it was trying to get that wee plug back on with the engine in, it's lucky my pal Carlo has skinny flexible arms (cheers mate!). Now get 55 on the ecu... all OK!!!!!

HOWEVER.... on driving the car a short distance I noticed that the exhaust gas temp. light blinked on for a second. On revving the engine to 3500k at idle and lifting off, the light would come on momantarily. I took the car carefully round the block and the light came on a couple of times, always when lifting off and would immediately disappear when I applied the accelerator. After the drive the car idled perfectly but the light came on after a few seconds and stayed on for a good 5 or 6 seconds.

I've changed to bkr8eix NGK iridium plugs when I was trying to find my original problem so will change them back tomorrow incase this is the problem. Also if there is 'knock' should I be able to hear it by putting a breaker bar against the engine and pressing my ear to the end? I've heard folk describe the noise like crisp packets getting scrunched up is that right?

Anybody got any other ideas?

Many thanks for all the replies folks .

J