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Discussion Starter #1
Well after some "unfortunate" news with my current engine, I am now in the market for a stroker kit.

At the moment I am leaning towards the JUN as the workmanship I have seen on these looks incredible, and I have seen a couple hold up really well when doing 800-1000hp at the crank (and they sound great when revving at 10,000rpm).

I am just after some feedback on the other options. Whats the Tomei kit like? It seems cheap in comparison to the others on offer, HKS is probably not an option at the moment, and I have never heard anything about the Trust strokers.

The car is running a Trust T88H-38GK and I am just debating on wether to go the 2.7L route and rev it higher, or would it be better to go the 2.8L for the extra displacement and less revs?

Any feedback/info on the other kits would be great.

Cheers,
Nik
 

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The tomei kit is rated by tomie at 600ps and rev limit of 8500rpm.

The hks kit is rated higher on step 1 and 2 but apparently not always up to the job. BUT saying that the HKS step 3 2800cc is an great bit of kit and the way to go dependant on how much power your after.

My choices would either be trust or hks step 3 if i was going to go stroker.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will be after around 550kw at the treads on pump fuel, so that counts the Tomei kit out.

Im pretty aware of what the HKS Step 3 kit is capable of, but no idea on the Trust. Do you know what power/revs they are rated to?

It will have all the supporting mods, OS/ATI balancer, JUN head etc.
 

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from one of the best skyline uk tuners in the business. They say its what tomei recommend but of course you can go a bit further but that is whats advised
 

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Well, you can go to 600 bhp or thereabouts safely without even opening the engine, so I'd hope that full forged internals would hold up to slightly more than that.

Phil
 

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Phil i was as surprised as you at that quote.....as i said to them "whats the point in buying it then?" but then again the tomei kit is very cheap
 

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There's always the OS Giken RB30 or fully-built RIPS RB30. That way you get better torque and spool and lower boost threshold.
 

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Nik

I personally think unless you are going a substiantial increase in displacement (i.e. 3.0) then stick with the stock displacement. Really sorry to hear that your current engine is in a bad way :(

if you look at a lot of the jap garages that are running quick times and decent HP a lot retain the stock displacement. Any idea on what boost you want to run? what do you want to use the car for? I think this is the first consideration as it will have the greatest bearing on displacement required.

I'm not the be all end all - just my findings from my research (independent of workshop preferances) for example, I would only use H beam rods when I build my next engine.

at the end of the day, just do your homework mate on your requirements and what benefits you can get from certain packages. (potential for a lot of the hard earned to be spent here depending on what build you go with!)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for that info Dan,

At the moment the choices have basically been narrowed down to the JUN and Trust kits. I can get both brand new at a very competitive price, and with a full counterweighted crank, rods and pistons its hard to beat. The extra 100cc of capacity will help a bit, and both will rev alot harder than a stock motor. So factoring in the price, strength, extra 100cc if displacement and revving capabilities, they seem like the sensible option to go.

Street tune will be running around 25 - 27psi boost through the turbo, on race gas it will probably see up to 35+psi for the odd occasion. The head is being fully built with every possible JUN part you can throw at it, so it will definately hold up to the punishment and also support the high revs of the strokers.

The car will be used mainly to drive around on the odd occasion, hit the strip, dynos etc.

The OSG RB30 is not an option at this stage :)
 

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between the two kits it is hard to say, they both look the same, couldn't find any weights on any of the trust gear though. go with the one that is friendler on your hip pocket if nothing else seperates them!
 

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hi guys,
been looking at stroker kits also ,mainly the jun kit,i thought the trust kit was discontinued, or the hks step 3 $$$ i also like the idea of the tomei crank rods and pistons leaving the engine @ 2.6l,i have a t88 so the extra 100cc will help
 

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GO for JUN:clap: :smokin: :bowdown1: :chuckle: :runaway:

Good luck with the choice,

Greetzz Kevin GO
 

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just noticed that one of the other guys on this forum mentinoed he twisted his JUN rods - resultign in damaged block and crank? perhaps not the best choice?
 

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just noticed that one of the other guys on this forum mentinoed he twisted his JUN rods - resultign in damaged block and crank? perhaps not the best choice?
yep, that should be me. but..

unless you dont do heavy drag race and dont rev pass 10k rpm (9k rpm if not using ati), Jun should be good enough. it the cheapest japs kit in the market anyway (tomei 2.8lL kit not fully counter balance crank but even cheaper). oh Jun crank = rock solid.

good thing about the Trust kit is, its rods are H form as to I form for Jun. and its using 22mm piston pin. jun kit is 21mm std size. if ure getting a good real for it, then its ok to buy it. although i dont like the piston rings. to thin for me.

I might rebuild back with Jun again. but this time im getting the basic kit (piston and crank) im hooking them with Carrillo H form rods (who made for Trust)

But im hearing Crower made some RB kits on other thread.
US$5500 for the complete kit. Includes 4340 steel billet crank (any desired stroke), 4340 steel billet connecting rods
cant seem to find any info/pics from any RB Crower user.

so im still in the market for a kit. no rush = no budget yet :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ended up going with the JUN stroker kit. Having seen the quality of the parts and multiple cars running big power with them it sealed the deal for me.

Now... debating wether to spend the $6000 on the Nismo GT block said workship has in their posession as well.
 

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Now... debating wether to spend the $6000 on the Nismo GT block said workship has in their posession as well.
got a question.

GT and N1 is it the same block?

Amaru, if u got the budget, go with HKS spec 3
 

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Discussion Starter #19
got a question.

GT and N1 is it the same block?

Amaru, if u got the budget, go with HKS spec 3
No the N1 and GT are not the same. The GT has stronger webbing and higher nickel content than the N1 block making it stronger. They are quite rare/expensive as they were only a few hundred made/sold (and are the basis for the Z-Tune engine).

Im happy with the choice of the JUN kit. As said, I have seen a couple of cars using the JUN kit making in excess of 900hp at 10,000rpm on pump fuel without a problem... and they have lasted for quite a long time/kms too, built at the same shop my car is at.
 

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6k too rich for my blood. i think N1(3K) is enuff for me..
Thanks for the info..
 
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