[Chris Wilson]

I am fitting a big in tank lift pump feeding an external swirl pot, with that in turn feeding two Bosch 044 motorsport pumps. The stock moulded plastic tank top is far from ideal as there's no easy way of upgrading the electrical connectors for something capable of carrying more current, or having proper dash whatever screwed pipe fitting on it. The stock moulded in steel pipe stubs are very small for a decent fuel flow from a hefty in tank lift pump, or an in tabk Bosch 044. I was about to make an alloy top with a plain 4mm thick face to allow me to fit whatever pipe through connectors I need and heavy duty (ATL) fuel proof electric cable feed through glands. Is anything like this commercially available, I know there are ones for the Toyota Supra? If not is anyone else interested in one, if I make one it's a good time to make 3 or 4 of them. They would use the stock rubber seal and outer knurled locking ring. Thanks.

 

[Stachi]

I already thought about making these myself, I'm keen to see your solution to this!

Marc

 

[Chris Wilson]

Basically a flat topped, dished copy of the original plastic top, in alloy, cnc machined. Would take the stock seal and ring. You drill to suit what bulkhead fittings your hose sizes need. In my case I am drilling for three off -6 45 degree angle bulkhead fittings, one from the in tank pump, one the fuel return from the swirl pot, and one for a breather / roll over valve hose. I will then drill for ATL through the panel fuel safe wire glands to feed the in tank pump and keep the stock 3 wire tank gauge / warning light set up. You can drill to suit your own needs. I think I could make 4 at about £60 each, the downside is it needs a big diameter (125mm) ally billet to machine them from, and it's costly stuff with a fair amount of wastage.

 

[Stachi]

I've got Ally in Stock of that Size (and bigger), but never had time yet to concentrate on the fuel system like that. I like doing things clean and neat, if it works in a professional Way it should also look professional.

If you got an Idea and need it machined, let me know

Marc

 

[Chris Wilson]

Thanks, but I can do simple bits like this myself, it's the tricky stuff I tend to farm out as I am not a "real" machinist, just a hobby one

 

[rockabilly]

chris when i fitted twin tomei pumps in my 33gtr tank i had similar issues, my cure and its been ok for 2 years now was to drill two 6mm holes in the tank skin next to the locking ring, on the left of the ring as you look at the tank from the rear. i then put a 1" length of thread bar with a nut and a washer on on it about 1/4" down from the top, then put the bar through the skin of the tank and put another washer and nut inside hte tank. i then tighten the two nuts against each other in effort trapping the skin of the tank between. then using ring terminals i connect the pumps to the studs inside the tank and the relay feeds to the studs on the outside, making the threaded bar the conductor, the tanks plastic so ideal for it. works great, no issue, you could do 4 and use the other two for earths, also when you remove the tank lid there is only the fuel lines to remove. on mine i used the feed/return lines as feed, and the drilled the tank and used a bulkhead fitting for my 10mm return line. had no problems and no fuel smell and lots of track days too.

 

[lightspeed]

If the R33 plate is identical to an R32 one, count me in for one.

 

[Chris Wilson]

I wouldn't know if it is the same, and I haven't got FAST on this PC to look for you. I'll post some photos of the bulkhead pipe fittings and Dowty seals I will use, someone has e-mailed me asking what I am on about Anyone able to look up R33 and R32 tank top "things" for Lightspeed this weekend? Ta.

 

[lightspeed]

I have fast on my old lap top, will check it out and let you know.

 

[R.I.P.S NZ]

I'm wondering why you want to upgrade the stock intank pump in the first place??, seems like alot of trouble to go to when the stock pump, when being used as a lift pump, is easily capable of flowing enough fuel as is actually needed to run a 1200-1400hp engine when you use a suitably designed surge tank with say 2 x 044s?

Rob

 

[Asim R32GTR]

I'm wondering why you want to upgrade the stock intank pump in the first place??, seems like alot of trouble to go to when the stock pump, when being used as a lift pump, is easily capable of flowing enough fuel as is actually needed to run a 1200-1400hp engine when you use a suitably designed surge tank with say 2 x 044s?

Rob

Agree with this. Just make sure your surgetank is big enough.

Im still running stock fuel lines on my car, i have twin walbro in-tank pumps. 584 /680nm at all 4 hubs (about 720hp at the fly).

Only thing i did was drill 2 6mm holes in the tank top, and put in some good wiring for the pumps. Just used 2 6mm bolts to connect wires, and some fuel resistant glue under the washers for the bolts.

Asim

 

[Philip]

I seem to remember seeing some neat alloy top plates which Abbey Motorsport had fitted onto the standard tanks - perhaps you could ask Mark.

Philip

 

[Chris Wilson]

It's just a Nismo pump, nothing fancy, as it's flow I want from it, not flow AND pressure. I intend to run just one Bosch pump except when on track. Two are probably overkill as I only want a genuine 600 BHP, but it's a belt and braces approach.

 

[Chris Wilson]

I am making 4 plates this week, so I will have at least one spare one.

 

[nozza1]

You mean like this;

Yes, have already designed and made myself one, defo not cheap but was needed for my application.

Trying to keep the car as stock looking as possible so modified the intank fuel pump cage to hold two tomei pumps, dont want the noise of bosch and/or external pumps, so it was needed for me, Rob.

Fueling system as follows; Two intank fuel pumps 'y' peiced into a -8 earls fitting, fed to a modified OEM fuel rail with two either end -8 feed earl fittings. Return is via a -6 back to the alloy fuel sender through a -6 earls fitting into tank.

Filters will be used where needed.

Electrics is ATL, NOT cheap for three eletrical lines.

 

[hpt_simon]

count me in, if i can have 2 fitting, cabling, and can keep the stock fuel level sender with all the stock carrier for my nimso fuel pump


simon

 

[akisman1]

I want one too!!!!

 

[Chris Wilson]

I just drilled one of mine this evening, I'll try and post photos tomorrow, but I am grabbing an hour here and there these days. I have 3 spare tops. I also have contacts for good prices on any fittings you may want. E-mail me if you want one of the spare turnings. [email protected]

 

[Chris Wilson]

My own top has three fittings, one for the in tank pump to swirl pot,
one for return from swirl pot to tank, and one for the breather (I use a
separate breather system with a one way valve, not the stock charcoal
canister).

You could fit 4 unions on one, no problem. The unions I use are -6 You could use a -3 for the breather if you wanted.

The wire feed seals are the cheap ATL ones, the motorsport (MIL Spec)
connector in the photo earlier in this thread is about 120 UK pounds on its
own....

Photos at IrfanView HTML-Thumbnails I would have to work out a price for the fittings but you can get them from a multitude of sources, probably local to you, and spec them to suit your hose sizes and routing. Demon Tweaks sell the cheap ATL through the top wire cable seals. I get most of my normal hose and fittings from Fay at Speedflow, who is incredibly helpful, knowledgeable and sells at a good price, not as cheap as some of the Ebay junk, but it's not junk that she sells Mention my name, she may do you a bit of extra discount.

I would sell the 3 spare ones I made at 60 quid each if anyone wants one, plus post and packing.

 

[nozza1]

That is a 'EXELLENT' price chris, l would recommend anyone wanting to do this mod to snap these up a.s.a.p, as l know how expensive my route was.:thumbsup: