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Discussion Starter #1
After fitting a replacement rev counter and that going 'mad' very shortly afterwards I decided to find out how to fix the problem once and for all.

This is for GTS-T but I think GTR's are the same, and get the same fault.

Here's what to do if your rev counter is faulty...

Remove the dash.
Open the dash and remove the rev counter part, 3 screws from the back.
To prevent damage to the neddle etc. remove the printed circuit board from the neddle come x/y motor assy. this is 2 screws and the 4 solder pads that need desoldering.
The heart of the rev counter is a AN8352UBK i.c. that is a 'charge-pump' (frequency to voltage converter) and x/y output device in a single i.c.

This i.c. has a slightly smaller than 'normal' pin-pitch, it appears Nissan left to much 'solder-resist' on the p.c.b. around the holes through the board for it's legs to go through, I strongly recomend desoldering this i.c. completely and then cleaning the solder-resist back around where the pins exit, then re-fit the i.c. and resolder carefully, remember to use ESD precautions at all times.

It's not like 'normal' dry joints, the failiure is NOT visable there just is not enough copper p.c.b track for the solder to make a perfect joint, once the green solder resist is cleaned away it is fine.

That should now work!?
As a precation I changed the capacitors C2 and C5, (both 1mfd) for new ones, and lowered C7 from 2.2mfd to 1mfd for a slightly faster response on the neddle.
I calibrated mine and for your info 6000rpm=100rps x 6 cycl.= 600Hz should be linier as in 300Hz = 3000rpm average between the two points for best accuracy.
There is a variable resistor R1 on the board to do the calibration.

Regards,
Andy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Chris.
I am not sure if anyone wants info like this anymore...
 

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fu*k me i see your from oxford did you do a course at the university on skyline clocks. good write up and if it was in the haynes manual it would be a 5 spanner job.:bowdown1:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm sorry I was having a bad day yesterday, my auobox is 'slipping' like crazy.....fubar'd.
Since making my inlet plenum front inlet the extra torque and throttle response killed the 'box in less than a week...so I was feeling sorry for myself.
Replacement found quite local-ish for a ton so feeling a bit better today, anyone got any hints on making it hold the power better?
Thanks all,
Andy.
 

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sorry for bumping this old thread , im having a blond moment but i have this problem at the mo , so what does ESD and I,C stand for?? sorry lol
 
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