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I have a simple question...
What is the differnece between Octane and RON?
I see that you are saying here 91, 93 octane fuel, and for 97 you are saying RON?
Isn't that 91 octane, 93 octane and 97 octane too?
In my country we can get 95 octane, 98 octane and 100 octane (depending on the gas company). I am now not sure if those are 98 and 100 octane, or RON...?!?
My guess would be that they are RON numbers.

Joe
 

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If I quote data it gets me shot down less often, apologies for over complicating it.

My personal opinion/experience is that I would use Tesco 99 and then V-power in a modified turbocharged vehicle. If the car was custom tuned for these I would use nothing else, and if I had to and didn't have appropriate datalogging with me I would only use something else off boost or with low boost until I could fill up with good stuff.

For standard cars or staged maps, just follow the manufacturer's or tuning kit's directions.

For the Cobb staged maps quoting 97 RON, this means any super unleaded with 97 RON rating or better. Most enthusiasts would tend to use the best they have available locally. GTR ignition timing is highly dynamic, and it is not like some European cars that calculate the desired torque based on airflow and ignition timing and will actually increase boost on low octane fuel or in hot weather to keep the torque up. Sorry if this last bit overcomplicates it again ;)

Simple answer - use 99 RON on any GTR IMHO.
Thanks for clarifying John.

Regards

ScottyB
 

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Strange Fuel specs you guys have in UK. They are basically "commercial specs". Euro specs for gasoline are according to EN228 (and only these specs are valid if you make a claim to a petrol station for delivering bad gasoline, even in UK). The 2 specs currently known are 95 RON (which has a minimum MON of 85) and 98 (which has a minimum MON of 88) For these 2 the equivalent spec's is US would be 90 and 93 Octane. So if you buy 97 in UK with a minimum MON of 85 I don't think you can claim them f the Ron is lower than 97 as long as it's over 95. Mind you, for some brands it is pretty easy to market 97 RON because they have more trouble meeting the MON spec and many refineries produce 97 RON when they meet the 85 MON spec.

Boy this thread has become technical indeed.
 

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Oh yeah, for Robbie, the diesel you tanked surely met EN590 specifications. Sure that's a reassuring thought!
 

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Tesco 99 is 99 RON, 87 MON

Greenergy International Ltd - Tesco 99 Octane

Worth using if you can get it. It's all I ever put in.



BTW in the wet tonight got rear wheel followed by front wheel wheelspin as the AWD shifted power around, in 2nd and 3rd with the AP stage 2.

Luverly!
 

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I need to speak to Ben about this, hearts saying yes yes yes but sensible head's reigning me in.
Anyway if i do can i run stage 1 and 2 with middlehursts (milltek) Y pipe or just stage 2.
Also if i go this way i'll defo go for the custom tune, anyone know how much this is and also how is this done.
also people talking about AFRs. is a higher no. lean or rich id assume lean
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I need to speak to Ben about this, hearts saying yes yes yes but sensible head's reigning me in.
Anyway if i do can i run stage 1 and 2 with middlehursts (milltek) Y pipe or just stage 2.
Also if i go this way i'll defo go for the custom tune, anyone know how much this is and also how is this done.
also people talking about AFRs. is a higher no. lean or rich id assume lean
Stage 1 recommend stock oem exhaust and mid pipe

Stage 2 works well with Y-pipes

Don't worry these free maps are also rich and designed for safety

When you get into the custom stuff nets more power depending on modifications on your car.

We can create a custom tune specific for your R35 based on a series of datalogging either in person or we can do via email. Both effective. This can take as long or as short until we are all happy. Have a read of the datalogging linky on page 1.

To be honest as many already understand stage 1 & 2 are already very effective, so we recommend only go for custom tune when going stage 3 i.e turbo outlets, actuators etc...We're not here to charge for stuff you don't really need :) ask Scotty B how much stuff i put him off from getting :p
 

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Stage 1 recommend stock oem exhaust and mid pipe

Stage 2 works well with Y-pipes

Don't worry these free maps are also rich and designed for safety

When you get into the custom stuff nets more power depending on modifications on your car.

We can create a custom tune specific for your R35 based on a series of datalogging either in person or we can do via email. Both effective. This can take as long or as short until we are all happy. Have a read of the datalogging linky on page 1.

To be honest as many already understand stage 1 & 2 are already very effective, so we recommend only go for custom tune when going stage 3 i.e turbo outlets, actuators etc...We're not here to charge for stuff you don't really need :) ask Scotty B how much stuff i put him off from getting :p
Thanks Ben,
I did read the data logging bit on page 1 but looked complicated (to me) im sure its not and i suppose its easier to understand when you have the AP

One thing has always puzzled me, if its this easy to get another 70hp and the maps still be on the safe side why wouldnt nissan do this straight from the factory.

I supposed i worry too much, only car i ever had tuned ( back in 97 ) was an integrale it then systematically fell to pieces, so i have a bad experience with just wanting that bit more power
 

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Thanks Ben,

I supposed i worry too much, only car i ever had tuned ( back in 97 ) was an integrale it then systematically fell to pieces, so i have a bad experience with just wanting that bit more power
What makes you think it wouldnt have fell apart without modding..
 

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Its an Italian thing!!
I had many Alfa's when I was younger & the only way to make them go faster was to make them lighter. Luckily Alfa's & Lancia's do this themselves by rusting away & bits falling off!!!!
 

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Stage 1 recommend stock oem exhaust and mid pipe

Stage 2 works well with Y-pipes
ARRGHH! Sorry to keep going on about this, but this is still ambiguous!

For Stage 1 do you mean "stock OEM exhaust and (an aftermarket) mid/Y-pipe"? Or do you now mean completely stock exhaust?

I know now that you can run, in reality, run either Stage with any combo of stock or aftermarket Y-pipe and cat-back system, but it would be interesting to know what the actual recommendation and intended mods Cobb had in mind when developing the two maps.
 

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ARRGHH! Sorry to keep going on about this, but this is still ambiguous!

For Stage 1 do you mean "stock OEM exhaust and (an aftermarket) mid/Y-pipe"? Or do you now mean completely stock exhaust?
He means.......

Stage 1 - OEM everything, but okay with an aftermarket catless Y-pipe too.

Stage 2 - Okay with catless y-pipe, and okay with full exhaust.

Okay?
 

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Ben before you answer David's question, can I just expand on it.

Could you perhaps phrase the answer as.

Stage 1 Optimised for ....
Stage 1 OK for ....

Stage 2 Optimised for ....
Stage 2 OK for ....


Rich

arr too late ....
 

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Ben before you answer David's question, can I just expand on it.

Could you perhaps phrase the answer as.

Stage 1 Optimised for ....
Stage 1 OK for ....

Stage 2 Optimised for ....
Stage 2 OK for ....


Rich

arr too late ....
No, I like your way of asking the question if Ben would like to give a definitive answer.

As I said, it appears that you can in reality run any combo you like, just as you have run Stage 2 with a completely stock exhaust, but I would just like clarification as to what Cobb had in mind when developing the maps.

When I've "finished" with the bolt-ons, I will get a final custom tune.

Of course, what does "finished" ever really mean? :chuckle:
 
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