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Discussion Starter #1
i'm thinking of fitting tomei step 2 "260deg 10.25 lift cams will these bolt stright in without head mods? also what are they like at idle? also i take it i will need new valve springs?

thanks
 

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From what I know, you will need EVERYTHING.

Valve Spings, Retainer, Solid lifter.

BUT, it was made that you don't need head work and therefore can be installed without removing the head. At least that was what Abbey said before. Kick me if I am wrong. :)
 

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Nocturnal said:
From what I know, you will need EVERYTHING.

Valve Spings, Retainer, Solid lifter.
someone's feeding you alot of bullsh!t

you should be able to get away with just fitting the cams straight in, but get the clearances re-checked to see if everythings sweet. if ur a little bit worried, get some heavy duty springs
 

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Tomei Step 2 Procam kit

Is 270 degree in & out with 10.25mm lift. Fits the RB26 without any headwork required and (I believe) the kit contains all the necessary gubbins to do the job.

Idle is fine but good mapping is a must.

Ask Abbey, they put mine in. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nocturnal said:
From what I know, you will need EVERYTHING.

Valve Spings, Retainer, Solid lifter.

BUT, it was made that you don't need head work and therefore can be installed without removing the head. At least that was what Abbey said before. Kick me if I am wrong. :)
i was reading back through the history and wanted to make sure cause on nengen they dont list it as a kit just cams on there own.
 

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By the lift you specify I assume your referring to the 'Procam' and not the 'Poncam'. Just looking through the Tomei website and it appears that there is no mention of HAVING to fit uprated springs etc. The Poncam is a direct replacement but I would think that with the higher lift and duration of the Procam a new set of springs and things wouldnt go amiss, especially if your fitting the cams to a higher mileage engine with possible tired, original valve springs.
Just my 2p worth.

TT
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sorry yes pro cam. at the moment ive got tomei poncams 260deg 9.15 lift standard valve springs. when it was on abbeys dyno pack they said the cams were at there limit on my spec so now ive got the engine out fitting forged pistons thought it was a good time to go to the next level of cams.
 

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Give me a shout if your getting rid of the Poncams matey. Might be in the market.:clap: :clap: .

TT
 

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What is the specs of your car?

The reason is that I am using HkS 272 Step1 CAM on my car and I made 517bhp on hub already. I am sure if I boost a little higher I can get around 650bhp.

I am pretty sure for FI engine, duration choice is more important than lift as I read some where. The reason for that is because air is being forced in, therefore lift isn't as important as it is on NA application.

I seen alot of 650bhp car that run a 270 step one CAM. HKS step one is direct fit with no need to change valve springs. 272/8.7mm if I recall correctly.
 

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The Great One said:
sorry yes pro cam. at the moment ive got tomei poncams 260deg 9.15 lift standard valve springs. when it was on abbeys dyno pack they said the cams were at there limit on my spec so now ive got the engine out fitting forged pistons thought it was a good time to go to the next level of cams.
Whats the spec of your car?......
 
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someone's feeding you alot of bullsh!t

you should be able to get away with just fitting the cams straight in, but get the clearances re-checked to see if everythings sweet. if ur a little bit worried, get some heavy duty springs

Okay we dont know what we are doing then....

You need cams,buckets,springs. The cams have small base circles so you need the thicker bucket and the springs that will take higher lift.

Mark
 

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I was referring to his comment of needing retainers & solid lifters. I've always been told to follow the guide of, lift 10.5mm or higher use heavy duty springs. But i suppose you have to factor in the 'what if' situation if u run 10.25mm lift with stock springs and some time down the track they sh!t themselves, could have been a bit easier to fit the heavy duties earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cylinder Block: N1
Pistons: N1 Nur edition (weight balanced) replacing to 87mm forged ones
Piston Rings: N1 low friction type
Conn-rods: Nur edition (weight balanced) replacing to h beam ones
Conn-Rod Bearings: Nismo
Main Bearings: Nismo
Camshafts: TOMEI 260deg 9.15 lift HKS PULLIES
Water Pump: N1
Oil Pump: N1
Timing Belt: Nismo
Head Gasket: Nismo t=1.2mm
Oil Sump Baffle Plate: Nismo
Ornament: Nismo Fine Spec Exclusive
Serial Plate: Nismo Fine Spec Exclusive
SPLIT FIRE COIL PACKS
TRUST GRADE 8 RACING PLUGS
TRUST OIL FILTER RE LOCATOR
FULL RACING HKS PIPE KIT
HKS 3 LAYER INTERCOOLER
HKS AIR FILTERS
ALL MEATAL GASKETS ON INLET AND EXHAUST
HKS GT'RS TWIN TURBOS
HKS TURBO ELBOWS
HKS FUEL RAIL
700CC SARD INJECTORS
SARD FUEL PRESURE REG
AEROQUIP FUEL HOSES
HKS FUEL PUMP 280L
UNKNOWN EXHAUST
HKS DOWN PIPES
DE CAT
HKS V PRO ECU NO MAFS
 

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shanef said:
I was referring to his comment of needing retainers & solid lifters. I've always been told to follow the guide of, lift 10.5mm or higher use heavy duty springs. But i suppose you have to factor in the 'what if' situation if u run 10.25mm lift with stock springs and some time down the track they sh!t themselves, could have been a bit easier to fit the heavy duties earlier.
Sorry, thought the solid lifter was the bucket.

But I thought if you do the springs, you might as well do the retainer, is it not?

I was interested in the ProCAM myself, (270/10.25), but don't honestly know if it is worth it since I am already running 272/8.7 CAM. How much difference will the higher lift makes? More Power? Torque?
 

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You running a GT-RS with 2.6L kit? How is the Shuffle? Is it bad?

If you are only making 550, you are running very low boost I would assume. The turbo should be good for about 700bhp with proper fueling.

I think you can at a push get another 100bhp out of your current setup with your CAM. (Unless your 550bhp is at the hub). I think you should be able to push about 550-580 hub bhp with your setup.
 

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Nocturnal said:
Valve Spings, Retainer, Solid lifter.
BUT, it was made that you don't need head work and therefore can be installed without removing the head. At least that was what Abbey said before. Kick me if I am wrong. :)
The Tomei cams have a 30mm base circle vs the stock 32 mm base circle. This means you need to make up that extra 2mm somewhere. You could do it in the bucket, or in the shim. Tomei does it with a taller bucket. The buckets are direct acting aka solid. No real lifter in an RB head.
 
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Sean,

you bet me to it.....

Funny how some people answer even thou they dont undertand a RB26 head.

The STd base cirlce cams i.e Poncam etc can only run up to 9.1 ish lift over this the cam will hit on the cylinder head. Step 2 HKS cams still run 32mm base circles so the head has to be modified to run bigger lift cams so you into a head remove and strip and rebuild.

Tomei decided to run a smaller base circle dia so allowing to run up to 10.6mm lift with out machining the head , you need to change the valve springs 1st to stop the std valve spring going coil bound with the extra lift and 2 to allow the higher revs to be used.

You could say the extra weight of the bucket will limit rpm but we have never had any trouble with this.

IMHO and step 2 cam like the Tomei 270 deg 10.2 mm lift will make a car spool earlier and make more top end power against less economy at criuse, but you cant have everything can you? Power and economy....
 

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Are Tomei cams re-profiled STD cams like the JUN cams as opposed to HKS?
 

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Will having different lift change when the turbo spool?

Basically, will a Big Single (T45s/To4R) spool earlier with a set of 270/10.2 CAM when compared to a set of 272/8.7 CAM? How much earlier will it spool if it is the case?
 
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