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Luffy said:
just for the record I havent said I dont agree with price as you outlined why it was high in the email and i agree, just that i cant afford it at the moment.

Annoying really cause i really want to do a lot of trackdays this year and I have just recieved info through post today on the Gurston Hill climb which i wanted to enter just to rub salt into wounds!!

I did maybe 25 track days with my old R33GTR, and anyone who knows me will perhaps say I don't hang about, having raced competively from the age of 12, and run in up to National F3 without making a fool of myself. Now, I only say this to offer you some hope with your own track day plans. My GTR was on Ohlins suspension, proper road legal race rubber (Michelin Pilot Sport Cups and P-Zero Corsas), had a bit more than stock power, and did 80% of the UK race circuits. The ONLY oil mods were a 32 row oil cooler, and an oil level about 10 mm over the full mark on the dipstick, checked and maintained RELIGIOUSLY at all times. I ran Valvoline Syn-Power oil. I had zero surge, or any other oil problems. The ONLY place I'd not run was Mallory Park, due to the renowned knack for Gerrards corner to cause oil surge in engines that never suffered it elsewhere. So I'd say don't worry about it, approach it sensibly and you should be fine.

A few mods, when the engine HAS to come out would be great, but in my own experience, they are not essential, the GTS-t I run on track at the moment has a totally stock tin sump on it, again, a bit of extra oil and it's fine, albeit I have done some serious breather mods to the PCV system.
 

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Gotta agree with Mark here, funnily enough i was discussing your post Pikey on sunday... 1.5hours to take the engine out... Now 3 hours.
Me and a friend were wondering if perhaps you were confused and meant that it took you 1.5hours to get the engine off the hoist and onto the stand...?

Formula one has got nothing on you mate!!

And possibly my favourite quote of the day...

or you could drive to Scotland with a dump valve leaking and have your car mapped....... :D :D :D
Preperation is definately not a 5minute job, Tig welding with traces of oil makes a lovely water tight seal ;) :D

Rob
 

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Chris Wilson said:
I did maybe 25 track days with my old R33GTR, and anyone who knows me will perhaps say I don't hang about, having raced competively from the age of 12, and run in up to National F3 without making a fool of myself. Now, I only say this to offer you some hope with your own track day plans. My GTR was on Ohlins suspension, proper road legal race rubber (Michelin Pilot Sport Cups and P-Zero Corsas), had a bit more than stock power, and did 80% of the UK race circuits. The ONLY oil mods were a 32 row oil cooler, and an oil level about 10 mm over the full mark on the dipstick, checked and maintained RELIGIOUSLY at all times. I ran Valvoline Syn-Power oil. I had zero surge, or any other oil problems. The ONLY place I'd not run was Mallory Park, due to the renowned knack for Gerrards corner to cause oil surge in engines that never suffered it elsewhere. So I'd say don't worry about it, approach it sensibly and you should be fine.

A few mods, when the engine HAS to come out would be great, but in my own experience, they are not essential, the GTS-t I run on track at the moment has a totally stock tin sump on it, again, a bit of extra oil and it's fine, albeit I have done some serious breather mods to the PCV system.
Chris, its always interesting reading your posts, Im doing some small mods on mine at the moment so I can do some track days this year.. so I may need to pick your brain on a few things:)
 

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I'll add in on this.

To be honest, labor rate is expansive for a reason. If you want things done correctly, thats how much it is going to cost, especially a GTR. The only thing I could think of saving money is to throw massive job all together and hope the labor cancel out each other.

It wouldn't make sense to just fit a slump extention on a car if you have to pull the engine out, the labor will cost around 2K anyways. Now, if you do a RB28 bottom rebuild, new oil pump, new slump, new turbo, head work, map...etc, the labor will still be expansive (I expect around 3K if not more for labor for the above list), but at least it was better than 2K for a slump.

The only thing I would say is that the long as the tuner give a proper time estimate for the job to charge the labor rate, then I am please with paying for it the long as it is fair. I got a quoted once to put on the R34 brake on the R32, it was a 10 hour job at (insert price here) per hour. Now, it could be him just to get me off the phone, or scare me off, but how in anyone right mind would it take 10 hours to do a brake change?

I was born at night, not born last night.

But that was an one off case and I think the guy on the phone must had a bad day. By the way, if it honestly take 10 hours to do a brake swap, please someone let me know which part take so long. :)
 

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Abbey M/S said:
or you could drive to Scotland with a dump valve leaking and have your car mapped.......:D :D :D :D
pmsl :D :D :D

Abbey M/S said:
3 hours to take out, 4 hours to refit. Well you better come and work for us.
We had my engine out (the second time) in 2 hours (including driving it into the workshop, pushing it out, eating a bacon sarnie - hence me saying 1.5 hours :p ), thats one qualified mechanic (my brother) and one monkey (me) for 2 hours each, 4 hours in total. I was assuming you could do it faster ;)

Putting my engine back in took much longer than 4 hours because we had problems aligning the twin plate clutch, and other problems - all caused by the fact that we have very little experience, and the engine had been out for about 6 months and we'd forgotten how it went back in.
If we were to refit an engine that had just come out the day before it should slot straight back in!

If that challenge is genuine, Id love to come and accept it :)

Abbey M/S said:
strip out the diff from the sump before you weld it 3 hours maybe?
Why do you need to do that then?
 
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Pikey

3 hours to remove the engine
has now gone to 4 hours.....and your motor has been out a few times already so that makes it a little easier and now you say you had 2 people on the job! get the facts correct.

You need to strip the stuff from the diff as the heat can burn the seals when the sump is welded on.

Got a 32 on the ramp, shall we leave it for you to take the motor out then..the deals still stands thou......

We can all say this and that....we been doing them for a few years and we will quote the hours we have quoted.
 

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Abbey M/S said:
now you say you had 2 people on the job! get the facts correct.
Pikey said:
me and my brother
Always said it was two people...
 

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My bad - we KNOW we can do it in 2 hours. 1.5 hours was our estimate of how fast we COULD do it next time :D

Here's the original post from 18 months ago:

Pikey said:
Saturday morning towed the car to Steve's garage, he and I removed the engine. 2 hours later and I can see my shiny red Nismo clutch, after I swore I would never see it again lol.
Challenge on. The two of us to take an R32GTR parked outside your workshop, drive it in, and return it to its parking space minus it's engine one and a half hours later :D :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter #91
how about we set 2 R32's up next to each other and have you and your brother on one and Abbey on the other in a head to head race!!!

"Challenge the Pro's"
 

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Im not interested in whether they can do it faster than us - there's something wrong if they cant, lol ;)
 

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Abbey M/S said:
Pikey,

3 hours to take out, 4 hours to refit. Well you better come and work for us.

Tell you what come and do it in front of me and I will give you a 100 quid if you can do it. I even lend you a ramp.

...
Does this offer apply to real mechanics, or only internet ones!!! :p And I want a damn sight more than a oner!!!

Bloody southerners!!!

But sreiously it isn't a 3 hour job to simply remove or re-fit an engine.
 

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Abbey M/S said:
Luffy,

got no problems with you mate its the other keyboard mechanics....


Keyboard mechanics HAHAHAHAHAHA love it, wish i got my engine out in 3 hours, took me and 2 mates about 45 minutes to get the bloody front diff housing past the sub frame!!!!!!!!!! think now could have lowered the sub frame. Can u fit new seals to the diff once engine back to gether and back in the engine bay?????

And hows my bearings coming along mark? and Many thanks for the advice on the sump ;-)
 

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Exactly. The gearbox bolts are a problem though arent they? Not sure how my brother did it, but the first time mine went wrong my brother took the sump off with the engine still in the car :)
 

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Discussion Starter #98
my cars having oil change today so while on ramp he is going to take a look at the sump! if i can get it done without taking enigine out that would be great!

Noticed your 200sx at your brothers Jeff, 2nd time lucky on MOT is it?
 

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Haha - no it still needs some work to it :eek:

Brake lines are corroded, new s/s braided lines turned up today so I'm going down tonight to fit them with my brother. Also the induction kit and boost valve aswell :D

They're stil moaning about the handbrake though. No idea what I can do about that because Ive permanently modified it - so if they dont accept it I think I'll just drive it off a bridge, lol :D
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Pain in the **** hey! i know someone who mite be able to do you a "special" MOT if you need it mate, only down the road from your brother aswell.

New Signature hey!
 
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