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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone.
I wanted to know if there are benefits to replace OEM parts with n1.
I read around the turbines and the oil pump n1 are more resistant and have higher performance
 

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Oil pump has higher flow (good), but has had a bad reputation of late with cracking the gears.
Best of the N1 turbos is the R34, which is a Garrett -7, good for more power and can handle more boost due to no ceramic rear wheel.

N1 exhaust manifolds are slightly ported, to match a t3 footprint of the turbo, instead of the normal t25.
But you can do this yourself with a spare gasket, some time and a dremel or similar.

N1 waterpumps tend to have worse flow at lower rev, but much better at higher rev.
Some people have cooling problems using these in street cars, some are fine.

All other parts are of no real advantage, and aftermarket solutions are usualy better.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wanted to know what you think of the first things to change in a r32 used mainly as a daily drive.
I also like trackdays but I use the car to go to work.
In my opinion, things should be in this order:
-brakes
-coilover
-bigger tires and wheels
-exhaust & filter
-ECU

what do you think?
 

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Upgrading the OEM brakes on an R32 GTR is a must if you tend to drive it where it was made for but stock coilovers are suprisingly good and not overly stiff for the road ;)
A nice set off alloys and tyres will transform the look off your car and most GTR's have an aftermarket exhaust and inlet anyways they really let loose on some cheap extra ponies under the hood :D

Have fun modding ;)
 

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you could also just swap the gears in the original pump, then it wont break the only bad thing about the R32 engine is that the oil pump nose, ore drive is shorter then the 33-34GTR.

What brake mods you think is enough ? Brembo ore just new pads and dish ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I wanted to keep the wheels 16 for semi-slick; Assemble the wheels 18 for normal driving.
For the brakes I had thought fit stainless braid oil Motul rbf660, better pads (DS3000 or other) for the disks I'm considering what's the extent of available stocks.
I saw that the ebc is a kit consisting of 4 disks and a complete set front and rear pads to 600 €.
what do you think?
 

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-brakes
-coilover
-bigger tires and wheels
-exhaust & filter
-ECU

I hate to go against the trend but speaking purely from having owned the car from a year and having done one track day I actually find the brakes ok.

They have pretty terrible feel, a lot of play in the system (I think the bulkhead where the master cylinder is mounted flexes), but in terms of stopping ability they are capable of locking the wheels and I personally didn't experience any fade in about 10 minutes of very hard running. Having said that this was using Cosworth streetmaster pads (roughly equivalent to DS2500s).

Coilovers are ok as standard although the car does ride high and will feel like its rolling a fair bit. The suspension has good camber compensation built into it though so provided your camber is not too far out you'll find that the car continues to corner hard despite the body roll.

Bigger tyres and wheels I can't really comment on, I'm still on stock. I'd consider going to a softer compound tyre and increasing to 245 width but I'd probably stick with my 16s as I like the stock style and I'm happy with my brake sizes.

Not much point fitting aftermarket ECU unless you're going to utilise it by going for bigger turbos.

All is of course merely in my opinion :)
 

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i think the standard brakes are pants my cars just running over 400hp and i find it really difficult to slow down fast enough when thrashing it my cars got fairly new disc and pads.

i really wanted to fit r33 brembos so i bought a set of 17 inch wheels that were supposedly light weight fitted them to the car and hated driving it the car felt really heavy clumsy and harder to change direction.

the standard r32 wheels are really light i think that's part of the reason the r32 feels so nimble for such a big heavy car
 

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I'm about to rebuild my engine. But what will be better? OEM watter and oil pump. Or an n1 set? It's an r20det and will be tuned till 350hp or a bit more. for weekend only and some track days.
 

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M.S.T - the N1 pumps are more efficient at high revs, but less effective at low revs. So good for track, not so good for city driving.
 

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GOGS 2 - If you're on standard rubber the stock brakes should be capable of stopping the car as well as any other set, they are capable of applying enough force to cause the ABS to kick in and you can't really ask a set of brakes to do any more than that. Of course if you have wider stickier tyres on then it is possible that the stock system cannot provide enough force to the disks to overcome the tyres grip, in which case bigger brakes would indeed help.
 

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But am i still able to cruise to a meeting at 120kph with n1 pumps?
Or will it run hot? Bearings spin due to oil lack? Or is it not that bad?
 

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OEM 32 brakes are shyte, you need the brembos off the 33 or 34 at a minimum if you're going to run her hard ;)
I had OEM brakes on mine with DS3000 pads. They stopped 600 bhp right in their tracks and I could break late, enough for my limited driving experience anyway. Tires being used were Toyo T1R 255/45/17, not the stickiest but.

Though, the pads are sad for the road, squeak and no real stopping power when cold really and they eat a disk up really fast on the track so I'd not recommend them. All in all the stock calipers are quite good and light weight. If I was you I'd go for good disks and pads with the mentioned fluid or equivalent and spend the brembo money elsewhere at this stage. While you are at it, change the pressure seals in the brakes as you never know how old they are and those are what affect brake performance alot. 300ZX (z32 twin turbo) brake seal kits are pocket money from a parts shop and are a direct replacement.

Since you are using 16" rims, a caliper spacer for larger disks might be out of order. The difference between the brembo calipers and stock aren't that big in terms of piston and pad size. They are aluminum, pistons are steel. The brembo calipers use magnesium pistons afaik.

Also, the stock GTR 16" wheels are magnesium and hence light :)

Exhaust wise, change the elbows too if you can and a decat makes a huge difference.

Air filter wise: Apexi for the filtration and longevity of your engine. Scott wrote a great article on filtration materials:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/606-air-induction-one-more-time.html


If I was in your situation with a stock ish R32 GTR (is it ?) :

- apexi induction kit with an under bonnet heat separator so they don't pull in heat from the engine. You can fabricate something of your own or search the internet for one. The apexi air box filter is by the way really inexpensive if you want to save up here a bit.

- (elbows if you can change them) - downpipe - decat - catback

- boost no more than 0.9 with stock ceramics for safety. a lot of people will argue that 1.0 is just fine but this is a personal choice. Rather be safe than sorry.

- make sure the fuel pressure regulator is fully functioning (being 20 years old now). If buying a new FPR, make sure it's genuine and not a cheap copy. Same goes for the injectors. Sard makes a nice FPR which can be mounted in place of the OEM with an adapter. Can never be too sure on the fueling as stuff is OLD and well, have a **** up there will cost you an engine rebuild if you're unlucky :(. Cast aluminum pistons don't like heat.

- Reputable brake disks and pads to your liking with braided lines and quality brake fluid. a Brake master cylinder stopper is probably the cheapest upgrade you can add to the brakes as the firewall flexes a lot under braking !

- Federal came out with a cheap-ish semislick tyre I'd be happy to try ! Though Advan A048's @ 16" can't be that expensive. The Toyo R888 require around -4 degrees of negative camber for maximum performance out of them.

- cheap suspension: BC do a quality set, the BR line.

- Wideband lambda meter.

- ECU wise a nistune or PFC are good budget choices.

All of these parts are relatively inexpensive.

This was my take on things, hope you enjoy your GTR ! :)
 

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i think the standard brakes are pants my cars just running over 400hp and i find it really difficult to slow down fast enough when thrashing it my cars got fairly new disc and pads.
Have you overhauled the calipers ? sounds like an issue with them, fluid or pads. The Brake master cylinder might have a leaky seal also.
 

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- Federal came out with a cheap-ish semislick tyre I'd be happy to try ! Though Advan A048's @ 16" can't be that expensive. The Toyo R888 require around -4 degrees of negative camber for maximum performance out of them.
That's interesting re the R888s, did you get that from tyre data sheet or from testing? Cheers
 

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That's interesting re the R888s, did you get that from tyre data sheet or from testing? Cheers
It's from testing and quite well known feature of the tyres. Sure they will no doubt provide excellent grip but to get the most out of them, a huge negative camber should be used. And in this case a road car with -4 in the front.. and would require adjustable multi-links in the front and a good pair will cost quite much :(
 

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Discussion Starter #19
for my daily drive i use sport tyres like bridgestone potenza or advan neova.
when rainy semislick tyres are dangerous......
 
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