GTR Forum banner

best RB26 fan system

  • viscous - if it ain't broke, don't fix it

    Votes: 119 63.3%
  • electric - on when you want it, off when you don't. Also gains you about 4bhp

    Votes: 69 36.7%

  • Total voters
    188
81 - 93 of 93 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
i give him the GO to start making them 2 months ago, as i needed to get the funds together, it's not cheap by pro company, 3d drawing, programming CNC 5D and make first parts prototype for testing on car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
k just installed 2 weeks ago electric fans, and you notice it for shure, not even a dyno needed, but will run dyno to know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Anybody here try the 94-98 Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan?
It is a very popular mod on this side. I don't know the CFM but with it's amp draw it is significant. It's***8203; OEM, so very reliable and has a replaceable motor. Oh, and it's PWM controllable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,668 Posts
No point trying to reinvent the wheel. The viscous fan works just fine and was even used in the Super Taikyu series.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
I understand the argument and agree to a degree. It is also true that engines become more responsive when you remove the clutch fan.

I need more seat time before I make a decision.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Just gone electric - mainly to get enough space around the damper to get a trigger kit on. Two Spal slimlines controlled through a G4+. Works fine in the heat we've had over the last month or so. Didn't realise how intrusive the visco noise was until I took it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Just gone electric - mainly to get enough space around the damper to get a trigger kit on. Two Spal slimlines controlled through a G4+. Works fine in the heat we've had over the last month or so. Didn't realise how intrusive the visco noise was until I took it off.
How did you get 2 Spal fan to work without hitting the steering pump line? I had to switch to 1 bigger 16" Spal fan but it is barely enough in the hot summer traffic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
How did you get 2 Spal fan to work without hitting the steering pump line? I had to switch to 1 bigger 16" Spal fan but it is barely enough in the hot summer traffic.
I've ditched HICAS and I've rotated the remaining power steering line on the pump towards the rear of the car to get enough clearance.

As a bit of an update to my earlier findings I've done a lot more testing with the fans and trip points. The fans are the same slimline Spals as mentioned by Leo earlier. I should point out that I'm a bit paranoid about overheating and I like to keep coolant in the 174-185 degree F range.

The car is a R32 GT-R with a RB30 with a semi-grout filled block, Koyo radiator, coolant header bottle, home made swirl pot in the top hose and its contantly bleeding air to the coolant header bottle from a takeoff in the coolant bleed port, top of radiator and top of the rad swirl pot. The car has a N1 water pump and a 100mm intercooler and currently no oil cooler (to be remedied soon).

During the unusually hot weather we had June to August in the UK this year I found that the replacement Visco clutch that I fitted last year wouldn't stop coolant temperatures from rising up to 205 degrees F + when idling for ten minutes or more in traffic. I had to hot wire my standard AC fan to provide extra blow and that kept temperatures under 195 degrees F when stationary.
With the Spals the temperatures were much more consistently controlled generally and I didn't need to use the extra blow from the AC fan half as much.

Anything over 40mph on the hottest day and the fans aren't required at all as there is enough air going through the front of the car. I found I had good results initiating the first fan at 178 degrees F and the second at around 183 degrees F if needed. This would keep temperatures in the 176-185 range most of the time but I would still recommend that the AC fan is retained as an emergency fan for long stationary periods in very hot weather.

I suspect the N1 water pump might be pumping less water around at idle speeds but have no way to prove it. If that is the case then a standard water pump might be better for keeping idle temperatures at a lower level.

Spal do make a slightly higher flowing but deeper suction fan which could be fitted on the alternator side of the radiator which would offer more cooling but it has a higher current draw as you'd expect.

Hope some of that helps someone. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I've ditched HICAS and I've rotated the remaining power steering line on the pump towards the rear of the car to get enough clearance.

As a bit of an update to my earlier findings I've done a lot more testing with the fans and trip points. The fans are the same slimline Spals as mentioned by Leo earlier. I should point out that I'm a bit paranoid about overheating and I like to keep coolant in the 174-185 degree F range.

The car is a R32 GT-R with a RB30 with a semi-grout filled block, Koyo radiator, coolant header bottle, home made swirl pot in the top hose and its contantly bleeding air to the coolant header bottle from a takeoff in the coolant bleed port, top of radiator and top of the rad swirl pot. The car has a N1 water pump and a 100mm intercooler and currently no oil cooler (to be remedied soon).

During the unusually hot weather we had June to August in the UK this year I found that the replacement Visco clutch that I fitted last year wouldn't stop coolant temperatures from rising up to 205 degrees F + when idling for ten minutes or more in traffic. I had to hot wire my standard AC fan to provide extra blow and that kept temperatures under 195 degrees F when stationary.
With the Spals the temperatures were much more consistently controlled generally and I didn't need to use the extra blow from the AC fan half as much.

Anything over 40mph on the hottest day and the fans aren't required at all as there is enough air going through the front of the car. I found I had good results initiating the first fan at 178 degrees F and the second at around 183 degrees F if needed. This would keep temperatures in the 176-185 range most of the time but I would still recommend that the AC fan is retained as an emergency fan for long stationary periods in very hot weather.

I suspect the N1 water pump might be pumping less water around at idle speeds but have no way to prove it. If that is the case then a standard water pump might be better for keeping idle temperatures at a lower level.

Spal do make a slightly higher flowing but deeper suction fan which could be fitted on the alternator side of the radiator which would offer more cooling but it has a higher current draw as you'd expect.

Hope some of that helps someone. :)
Let me try and see if I can rotate it without interfer with the A/C lines
 
81 - 93 of 93 Posts
Top