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i've run bolt on spacers on some powerful R32/33 GTR's, stagea's and supra's with
no problems.
however i've always used ULTRALITE WHEELS with ultralite's own specific hubcentric spacers.
 

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So why are Project Kics spacers considered to be the best type by many people? Are they using superior grades of metals?
 

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I use 15mm H&R spacers all round and they seem to be really well made and perform great. But then again, you might not know if there's a problem until one of your wheels is in orbit along with yourself. Scary stuff. I think the best thing to do at least is to avoid the really cheap and nasty ones. Anyway Glad you and the car are ok, that's the main thing :)
 

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I brought H&R spacers after looking at the various options out there. Have to say they all seemed pretty much the same I.e same sizing, same material so dont know how I could tell any real difference.

What's so good about the kicks spaces ?
 

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I have used h+r bolt on ones and slip on ones with the longer studs before. But they are tuv approved and are much better quality.

I have a customers track car in which has some of these superforma ones fitted on the rear. I just had a look at them, and after seeing this thread, i would be very dubious about using them. They just have no meat where the nuts hold them to the hub, they could just tear right off.
 

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i want to change my spacers for the longer stud type. does anybody know where i can get some? with the longer studs as well? (if not supplied)
 

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Having seen this, I am now more inclined to fit the "slip on" spacers with longer studs than the hubcentric design most seem to favour.

At least then you stand a chance of keeping the wheel on should the spacer break up, but it's a lot less likely as there should be no bending forces exerted on the spacer as the studs are not integral to their structure.

Iain is looking into an Eibach solution that will work with the rear TSW Nurburgrings so they match the perfect offset of the front ones (that therefore do not require spacers).
David, how do you fit "slip on" spacers with longer studs when the GTR has fixed studs with wheel nuts. It doesn't allow wheel bolts like the Euro cars.
Is it easy to remove the original studs yourself?
I have H&R DRM 15mm spacers on, but I can't find an equivalent H&R DRS type with longer studs.

Please let me know how you think it would work. :confused:
 

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David, how do you fit "slip on" spacers with longer studs when the GTR has fixed studs with wheel nuts. It doesn't allow wheel bolts like the Euro cars.
Is it easy to remove the original studs yourself?
I have H&R DRM 15mm spacers on, but I can't find an equivalent H&R DRS type with longer studs.

Please let me know how you think it would work. :confused:
I think the terminology is confusing. What I mean is a spacer that fits over longer replacement studs that is simply held in place by the wheel rather than the spacers that failed which themselves have to be bolted to the hub and then offer up their own studs for the nuts to screw onto.

The issue Iain is having is finding the correct longer studs from Eibach which will correctly thread into the stock hub. The TSW wheels then require a certain design that will not interfere with its rear face. I believe Eibach already do the correct spacers for the stock Nissan wheels.
 

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I think the terminology is confusing. What I mean is a spacer that fits over longer replacement studs that is simply held in place by the wheel rather than the spacers that failed which themselves have to be bolted to the hub and then offer up their own studs for the nuts to screw onto.

The issue Iain is having is finding the correct longer studs from Eibach which will correctly thread into the stock hub. The TSW wheels then require a certain design that will not interfere with its rear face. I believe Eibach already do the correct spacers for the stock Nissan wheels.
Excellent as he is going to fit some on my car next month!
 

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David, how do you fit "slip on" spacers with longer studs when the GTR has fixed studs with wheel nuts. It doesn't allow wheel bolts like the Euro cars.
Is it easy to remove the original studs yourself?
I have H&R DRM 15mm spacers on, but I can't find an equivalent H&R DRS type with longer studs.

Please let me know how you think it would work. :confused:
You have to remove the origonal studs from the hub, and fit the new longer ones.
Its a bit more of a ball ache, but the safest way with thin spacers.

Those kics spacers do bolt-on ones in 10mm:nervous: cant imagine there would be much meat holding them on either....
 

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You have to all ask yourself, is adding extra 'stance' on an already wide car placing more load problems on the hub, aswell as adding yet more unsprung mass and increasing distance and thus the leverage force from the already heavy wheel and tyre against the suspension worth it?

If stance is that important, save up, sell the factory wheels, get lighter aftermarket forged wheels with the appropiate OFFSET - this mitigates 50% of the problems with using bloody spacers.
 

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the main problem with bolt on spacers, is people using them with the wrong wheels...
ie. you can not use 20mm or smaller bolt on spacers with the R34GTR wheel.
the original stud sticks out further than 20mm and interfears with the wheel hub face,
stopping the wheel from actually sitting on the spacers hub.therefore just hanging as such on the spacer studs.
no studs have any really shear strength, but they dont need strength that way, provided the wheel is seated on the hub of the spacer correctly and intern the spacer is seated correctly on the wheel hub correctly there should never be a problem.

great care has to be taken fitting slip on spacers,these must also be sat on the hub correctly, then the wheel sat on the spacer hub correctly.. then tightened

i therefore prefer bolt on spacers as you can check they are seated correctly, before bolting on the wheel....
but i would never use a bolt on spacer smaller than 20mm, due to the lack of meat where the spacer bolts on.
 

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You have to all ask yourself, is adding extra 'stance' on an already wide car placing more load problems on the hub, aswell as adding yet more unsprung mass and increasing distance and thus the leverage force from the already heavy wheel and tyre against the suspension worth it?

If stance is that important, save up, sell the factory wheels, get lighter aftermarket forged wheels with the appropiate OFFSET - this mitigates 50% of the problems with using bloody spacers.
i use spacers on my r32gtr when i track it, as i have one set of track wheels which i also use on my r33gtst.
the rear wheels i use are 9.5x17 et 35...perfect for the GTST
when used on my GTR, i use 20mm spacers, therfore changing wheel effectively to 9'5x17 et15 perfect for the GTR.

nowt to do with stance etc.

just one set of wheels do 2 cars.
 

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Anybody know where I can buy some 15mm slip on style spacers with longer studs? Can't seem to find them anywhere!
 
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