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Discussion Starter #1
I am building an RB30 with RB26 head.. Same question would apply even if it was an RB26 block though. I have removed the oil cooler and am left with two smaller pipe stubs for the water system. From what I can gather these little pipes would divert water to the oil cooler if it was there and would also allow water to bypass the car heater system.. Now I am not sure how the valve setup on the heater system works. Can I just blank off the two stubs left (see below). Or do I need to connect them together so that if the heater is off it does no hinder the flow of water around the engine.

Small stub sticking up off of the pipe coming from the thermostat housing (this is not on an RB26 as it is in the pipwork routed to te cooler).


Also the return stub at the rear where the water pipe goes back into the block (left below)


One thing I noticed is if these stubs are important to connect up the ones on the RB26 are larger bore. Will it matter that the RB30 has smaller?

Thank you
Lee
 

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hi
you can just block them off if you don't have any use for them.
i have used them for water feed and return for the cold start on my q45 throttle.

mark
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mark,

That makes life easier. and one less bit of pipe to route about!

There is also a pipe that connects to the chamber under the throttle bodies. I guess a cooling chamber of some sort. The pipe runs out to the back of the motor and I think around to the stock twins when they were there. I have gone to single. I might need to post a pic of the pipe I am talking about.. but again I need to know if I can block it off or need to run it somewhere? I cannot see another pipe from this chamber so don't know how it routes or works!

Let me know if you need pics and I'll have to try and get one in the week.

Cheers
Lee
 

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Thanks Mark,

That makes life easier. and one less bit of pipe to route about!

There is also a pipe that connects to the chamber under the throttle bodies. I guess a cooling chamber of some sort. The pipe runs out to the back of the motor and I think around to the stock twins when they were there. I have gone to single. I might need to post a pic of the pipe I am talking about.. but again I need to know if I can block it off or need to run it somewhere? I cannot see another pipe from this chamber so don't know how it routes or works!

Let me know if you need pics and I'll have to try and get one in the week.

Cheers
Lee
no prob lee
from what you are describing the pipes running around the back of the motor(should be metal pipe if oe) are the water returns from the turbos, i you are not running a water cooled turbo they can be bloked off/removed.
pic's would be good to make sure

mark
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's the ones.. There are 3 I think.. Two of the pipes are air pipes I believe and run to the OEM boost solenoid. so all that has been scrapped off with the OEM oil cooler pipe work as they are welded together. The third pipe runs into the chamber under the throttle body housing and I guess is a water way of some sort. So I just want to check again that blocking it off does not cause disruption to the circulation of water around the engine?

Cheers
Lee
 

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That's the ones.. There are 3 I think.. Two of the pipes are air pipes I believe and run to the OEM boost solenoid. so all that has been scrapped off with the OEM oil cooler pipe work as they are welded together. The third pipe runs into the chamber under the throttle body housing and I guess is a water way of some sort. So I just want to check again that blocking it off does not cause disruption to the circulation of water around the engine?

Cheers
Lee
yes that's correct.you can block them all off with no problems:thumbsup:

just out of interest what mods have you done to your rb30 eg bearing/rods/pistons/pump etc?

mark
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cheers for the info Mark,

I am starting off with a fairly stock bottom end as it's my first build..

I have lightened, balanced and shot peened the rods, balanced the pistons and so on. got some aftermarket piston rings. got ACL Race bearings. N1 pumps, crank collar which I have had made myself and that's about it. Gone for some Stage 1 HKS cams and 700cc SARD injectors up top.

Why you ask? You done or doing one yourself.

If you know anyone in the need I have a spare complete engine genuine Nissan gasket kit and another set of performance RB30 rings. can also get sump adapters and crank collars done to order very reasonably..

Anyway.. Thanks again. for once it sounds like I don't need to be fabbing up some more modification parts!

Lee
 

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Ahh, I just seen you are in NZ!!!
are you on the SAU forum as well?

Thanks
Lee
sweet as, just only on here.
your rb30 is simaler spec to mine that have just completed the runin(acl race bearings,knife edged & balenced crank,n1 water,r34 n1 oil,balanced standard pistons & rods,1.5mm oil restricter with other blocked off,25t head,standared cams,greddy manifold,q45 throttle,apexi 600cc injec,power fc d-jetro,vg30 turbo etc) :squintdan

be sure to modify the oil restricters in the block as well as i would advise doing the head drain modification since you are using an n1 pump.
the head drain is the only mod i haven't done and i regret not doing it(head is filling with oil and out breathers at satained high rpm:bawling:
mark
p.s whats your location?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey Mark.. Will be interested to hear what power you make.. I forgot to mention I had done the oil restriction exactly the same as you and I have already done the head oil breath/drain mod. just did it last weekend! I have a thread on here about it and there was a link to a SAU thread about it.. Quite a big topic of discussion!

I am also running twin q45 Maf's.. how were they to setup? some people say they are a pig to work with? if you have any setup info that couple help me I would be pleased to know!
I am running a standard Apexi ECU.
The only thing I didn't do which I considered was get the crank knife edged. Discsussed with with a few people and they talked me out of it for cost vs gain considering the rest of my build is quite stock! certianly not a bad thing to have done though!

What rev limit you intend on running? I was thinking 6750rpm to play safe? at least till i've had some use from it! seems no point to rev it higher if I can get a good map to keep the power a bit lower down.

I am in the UK mate.. South coast. Near a place called Portsmouth.

Thanks for all the info.

Lee
 

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heres the dyno sheet from when it was tuned.
as you will see it comes on boost very quickly and the vg30 turbo is running out of flow.
it makes for interesting driving with first & second can't get traction since its in a 2wd gtst so the back end comes around to greet often:squintdan
it should be interesting to see what it can really do when i change to a bigger turbo.
for safety we have set the rev limit at 6700

i am using map sensers instead of maps since i am using the d-jetro version of the pfc.

am looking forward to see what hp yours produces:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for that post.. i'll keep you posted how mine does.. I'll do a build thread when I have time and post the results but I am hoping to get high 400's wheel power so somewhere 500+ gross. Should be easily doable but we will see. The turbo is almost certainly limiting quite a lot on power and I presume that was less than 1bar boost if the title is anything to go by? I was planning on 1.2bar for high boost with 0.9 regular driving.

Time will tell though!

Cheers
Lee
 

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Hi Lee, yes it was on 12psi/0.8bar.
the tuner tryed higher but just didn't make anymore power.so now trying to decide what turbo to run now.
it's really restricting it,my tuner has built an rb30 with the only difference of forged internals and a t51r spl turbo and it was making over 500hp on 9psi/0.6bar on his run in tune.
you shouldn't have any problem making 400-500hp depending on spec of your turbo

mark
 
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