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Weird Electrics... Any ideas..

2K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  couzz 
#1 ·
Any of you guys had this before..

R32 GTR, Headlamp bulb on the passenger side of the car goes out. Think o.k I need to replace the bulb, driving home last night the bulb starts working again... Think, must be a dodgey bulb then, turn the lights off and on again and it stops working..

Move the bulb to the drivers side to test it and it works every time, move the known good buld to the passenger side and it does not work. Weird huh..! Well got the ameter out to test the voltage and when I get a reading from the passenger side contacts I read 11.9 Volts, same as the drivers side. You put any bulb in and the voltage drops to 0.

Looked for fuses and can not find any for the dipped beam only full beam. Could this be the switch on the dash??

Any ideas most grateful as I have been pulling my hair out about this.

Malc
 
#5 ·
much the same

On much the same note, does anyone know the quickest / easiest way to get into the switch on the dash for the headlamps?? On the R32 its the rotating switch type on the right hand side. I can`t get mine to switch off properly and am struck with the sidelights and interior dash lights unless i pull the fuse. Probably dirty contacts or need a new switch , dont know yet but need to have a look!!
 
#7 ·
??

Which connector Dave?? I have even tried plugging the bulb into the main beam and this does not work?? I also tried plugging the bulb directly into the 3 pin connector that joins the extension which powers both dipped and full beam bulbs and still not working... It must be the switch.. Any one of you guys tapped it with your hand to see if you get a flacky connection, becuase I seem to on mine.

Malc
 
#8 ·
dont think its the switch > this runs a relay that controls the head lamps.

im not exactly sure if it does this on a Skyline, it does on just about every other car though.

Could be your relay that turned to porridge
 
#9 ·
do a test. get a piece of wire (that can handle at least 10A) and shove it into the connector for the lamp bulb, such that it contacts the ground side of the bulb. USER YOUR TESTMETER TO ENSURE YTOIU GET THE CORRECT SIDE.

Then ground the other end, making sure it's a really good earth. If your bulb works fine then you've proved the problem, and you can considerer splicing the loom to replace the poor earth.

Jon
 
#11 ·
Done that already

I have tried that already and it still did not work and the voltage drops to 0..

Does anyone know which relay it is? There is a relay for high beam but nothing labelled for the standard headlights or side lights.?

Any body know where that is??

Malc
 
#12 ·
The consensus is almost certainly right, but one other thing to consider is the bulb holder itself, have a close look at the brass 'cup' and the earth on that, I don't 'know' this bulbholder well enough but some J-spec holders have a rather hit and miss earthing on them and they look OK until you really take aclose look.

Re-reading I see Cipher mentioned this already, so I'll just shut up and go to bed shortly :D
 
#13 ·
Found the Fault..

i have found the fault.

After hours of testing, earths, live's and relays. i have finally found the problem.

1st point: The relay under the bonnet which says H/Light is crap because this does nothing. Take it out and the lights still work, that is side, dipped and full beam.

After scratching my head and saying (with a qualified electrician) fcuk it I will take the switch out as there is nothing else. took this out and there are all of the head light wires coming to here. There are 3 metal rockers in side this switch which roll onto small contacts, took some fine emory paper and cleaned the contacts (as they were not the best but what do you expect after 11 yrs).

Put the switch back together and now is running sweet as.. no problems... If any of you have some weirdy's with the lights try the switch..

Hope this helps some one else..

Malc
 
#16 ·
Hi Dave

You have to unscrew the 2 screws in the dash (where speedo is, at the top) then unscrew and remove the plastic trim around the steering wheel. Unscrew the 4 screws from the bottom of the dash holding the bottom of the dash together (One screw inside the door with a cover over it).

Then behind these lower panels is another 4 screws which you undo, then there is one each side holding the top of the binacle to the clock section of the dash. You will then be able to pull this out and get to the sockets for the switches on the dash. Then the whole section can be removed and you will then see 3 small screws on the back of the switch which you remove and then the switch comes out. You can then un-clip the back of the switch and get to the contacts etc.

Hope this helps mate

If you have any problems let me know

Malc
 
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