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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After fast road Car with low down power would be nice around the 550bhp mark. Been reading so many threads the last couple of days and I just want to make sure.

-5 turbos
800cc injectors
Fpr
Walbro 450lph
Nismo afm
Straight through exhaust
Oil catcher can
Big intercooler + hard pipe
Power fc
Hks boost controller

I'm gathering I need cam pulley, 260 pro cams and some je pistons will this be ok , or do you recommend some different cam and piston and other parts
 

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Pro cams will need the head machined if i remember right there not drop in cams

Je pistons are fine but be aswell do ur rods at same time tbh as u will want more power later on
 

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If I recall correctly 10mm is Max lift without machining the head.
Fpr isn't really necessary unless you need to raise your base fuel pressure.
The cost of a pfc and external boost controller costs almost the same as a link ecu which is way better and you don't need afms either.

Rods don't need to be changed, but good idea if you want more power later on.
Standard exhaust manifolds can get ported for better flow. Easy to do yourself if you got tools.
 

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ive just done the headgasket on my rb27 first time ive had the engine apart since I bought it.
the cams are 260d 10.3mm lift apexis and the head has had extensive clearanceing to fit them.
 

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After fast road Car with low down power would be nice around the 550bhp mark. Been reading so many threads the last couple of days and I just want to make sure.

-5 turbos
800cc injectors
Fpr
Walbro 450lph
Nismo afm
Straight through exhaust
Oil catcher can
Big intercooler + hard pipe
Power fc
Hks boost controller

I'm gathering I need cam pulley, 260 pro cams and some je pistons will this be ok , or do you recommend some different cam and piston and other parts
Considered the Mines 252 @ 10.05mm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
The power fc and the boost controller was already on the car mate otherwise I would have gone with the link
power gains with a machined head? Say 260 10.25
Power gains without a machined head? 260 9.25

Sorry if I'm being a pain but don't want to put the cams in and regret it.
 

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to give you some idea I have an r32 gtr that's bone stock except forged pistons and a set of -7 turbos on it with some 550 injectors and a power fc.
at 1.2 bar of boost the afms are flat out and it made 415 rear hub hp 450 crank hp mgt dynapack.
with a set of -5s on it with supporting fuel system and afms im sure it would make 550 crank hp easily.


my r33 gtr has just been mapped today at 1.8 bar gt4094r turbo on a 2.7 stroker with a fully worked head running apexi 260d 10.3mm lift cams with highly modified fuel system and cooling to cope and its made 640 all hub hp 710 crank hp mgt dyno.


for 550 hp I would just run the stage 1 cams that require no head work, -5s aren't that responsive though ive had some on an r32 gtr I had 3 years ago and it made about 600 crank hp with stage 1 cams and a ported head at 1.4 bar, this car trapped 122 - 123 mph consistently at the drag strip.


if you want some dyno plots just ask and il post mine here, I have the plots for -7s dynapack 1.2 bar mgt, -5s dyno dynamics 1.2 bar rising sun, gt4094r 0.84 a/r 1.7 bar dynapack abbey motorsport and gt4094r 1.06 a/r 1.8 bar dynapack mgt. and I know all the engine specs I can give you aswell :)
 

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The power fc and the boost controller was already on the car mate otherwise I would have gone with the link
power gains with a machined head? Say 260 10.25
Power gains without a machined head? 260 9.25

Sorry if I'm being a pain but don't want to put the cams in and regret it.
Very hard to tell. You might get a ported head and the port work is absolute crap.
 

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-7s mgt dynapack rear hub hp 1.2 bar, 550 injectors power fc, for flywheel power add 35 hp to this figure




-5s 1.2 bar rising sun dyno dynamics flywheel hp, 660 injectors, massive intercooler, uprated fuel pump hardwired, ported head with stage 1 cams, forged pistons.





gt4094r 0.84 a/r housing, dyno boost 1.7 bar, rb27 stroker, ported and modified head, 260d 10.3mm lift cams, twin fuel pumps, 1000cc injectors and greddy twin entry rail, massive intercooler and rad on abbeys dynapack, for flywheel power add 70 hp to the hub figure






and then the exact same engine above has just had headgasket done with a thicker gasket with a slightler lower c/r, turbine housing changed to 1.06 a/r and dyno boost ran at 1.7 bar on mgts dynapack yesterday, for flywheel power add 70hp to the hub figure





I hope that helps a little its took me a while to dig up the old plots lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Great help mate, thanks for digging these graphs out . your 2.7 look savage when it comes on boost, what's it like to drive ? It looks a lot of fun lol. The graph alone put a smile on my face
 

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I'd go with the mines shore II cams, high lift on them and don't open that much so you get more low down torque, piston wise most of the branded 3rd party pistons are relatively the same unless you're planning on going for a longer stroke which I'd advise against if you're after fast road keep the shorter stroke, I'd also do rods as well while you're in there and you'd need machine the head to allow for the higher lift cams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can't find to much info on the mines cams mate , I've heard tomei make them and I'm gathering you got to get the head machined to. But if you get more torque then maybe that's my best route. More torque the better cheers for the info mate never even knew mines did cams lol you learn something new every day, need to research some more
 

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Can't find to much info on the mines cams mate , I've heard tomei make them and I'm gathering you got to get the head machined to. But if you get more torque then maybe that's my best route. More torque the better cheers for the info mate never even knew mines did cams lol you learn something new every day, need to research some more
Here you go man Mines Shore Pro II, Nismo also do a high lift 10mm cam I think as well but it's a longer duration 264°
 

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I'd go with the mines shore II cams, high lift on them and don't open that much so you get more low down torque, piston wise most of the branded 3rd party pistons are relatively the same unless you're planning on going for a longer stroke which I'd advise against if you're after fast road keep the shorter stroke, I'd also do rods as well while you're in there and you'd need machine the head to allow for the higher lift cams.
Advise against a stroker for a fast road car?
Care to explain?
 

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Mmm....yeah? Road car that needs lots of revs, or one that is capable of as many revs but makes more torque......
 
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