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Discussion Starter #1
just mulling over some future plans - I've got a fairly complete set of supporting mods; I could slap on 800bhp worth of turbo straight onto my engine, map, and be done.

However, what specific upgrades for 1000+bhp Skylines are done that I haven't done? Quad plate clutches? Transmission (I'm guessing no one has run a grand of bhp on the stock tranny?). Drive shafts? Diffs? 1600cc injectors, or two injectors per intake runner?

now I've never driven a 1000bhp Skyline, but I imagine lag would be a bit of an issue (although videos seem to indicate otherwise). And then here is where I perceive the limits of the Skyline to be.

When I first got into the GT-R, my goal was to match or exceed the power of the extant king of the hill at the time, the Ferrari Enzo. Getting over 620bhp has been achieved, and now I think I can safely run with or pull away from any "supercar".

But with stock saloons well into the 500s in terms of horsepower, full-on sports cars also have stepped up a level - the hypercar.

There are Skylines that outpower a Bugatti Veyron. But is it honestly quicker?? We are handicapped by displacement in a big way, and getting the same horsepower numbers entails greater amounts of turbo lag - am I wrong here?

So a good, tuned Skyline can handle supercars, but one tuned to match the power of a hypercar...just wouldn't be streetable, would it?
 

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There are Skylines that outpower a Bugatti Veyron. But is it honestly quicker?? We are handicapped by displacement in a big way, and getting the same horsepower numbers entails greater amounts of turbo lag - am I wrong here?

So a good, tuned Skyline can handle supercars, but one tuned to match the power of a hypercar...just wouldn't be streetable, would it?
The Veyron standing 1/4 is 10.4 according to the test I saw, a 1000bhp Skyline at full weight should be easy sub 10 so it's certainly quicker over the 1/4. The Veyron weighs a hell of a lot more than the Skyline but has better aero and gearbox allowing much higher top speeds; not sure the Veyron would be anywhere near as good around the twisties though...

I've spoken to people with genuine 1000+bhp Skylines and they claim to be very driveable/streetable, one even tracked his with a turbo you'd consider to be a laggy drag queen!
 

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Hollinger/OS88
Aftermarket front and rear LSD's
Uprated front driveshafts
Big intercooler
As many water cooling mods as you can find!
Front undertray
4-5" exhaust
Full counter crank
ATI race damper
22mm gudgeon pins
Triple or Quad plate
Serious head work

I've been collecting parts for my 32 for about 4 years now. Aiming for 800hp using the OS Giken gearset with centre plate and all new bearings/synchros etc. More power would be relatively easy with a bigger turbo but the expensive weak link is the gear box. Plus more power = more stress on all the drivetrain ie shorter life, more breakages.

That said, given how you like to use your car I think it's time Kismet Street Drag was running a sequential and 1000hp. Get it done.
 

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Uprated front driveshafts
I think the whole front drivetrain is weak and will never become stronger unless you replace the front ring and pinion with something BIG. That diff can't hold much and the driveshafts are not really the weak point. additionally you don't need more than 200 horses on the front wheels, so put those other 800 on the rear wheels. My 2 cents, not sure but just my guess :)
 

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What you need to do is first get your 600hp engine to keep it together.
Then you can go forward to 1000hp.

Friedrich Nietzsche once said "He who would learn to fly one day must first learn to stand and walk and run and climb and dance; one cannot fly into flying. "
Those are some very vise words!

Asim :D

Edit: Oh, and one of those in the pic scoooby slayer posted !
 

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I would have said that if you want something drivable capacity and valve area is key. On that basis a VH with 4.1 or 4.5 with four more valves has to be an advantage. I hear that the Lexus v8s knock out 1000bhp with a pair of turbos fitted.
 

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The ring and pinion are stronger than the stock driveshafts and the diff centre.
You are limited by the torque capacity of the transfer case anyway.

From everything I've read and seen over the years put an aftermarket LSD in the front, launch it hard and you will end up breaking stock front shafts. There are still a few off the shelf options available.
 

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How much torque can the front shaft take really?

It is now that I have up the power and torque (580lb/ft of torque), I am not sure how much the drivetrain can take... :nervous:
 

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Rob @ R.I.P.S is building an RB34 in his spare time, That would be high on my list if I was ever building a 1000hp car that you want some driveability for the street.

....But I did like the comment from Asim R32GTR, I think you need to get someone else (RIPS) to build it for you....Your stats so far on engine/turbo life is not good!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What you need to do is first get your 600hp engine to keep it together.
Then you can go forward to 1000hp.

Friedrich Nietzsche once said "He who would learn to fly one day must first learn to stand and walk and run and climb and dance; one cannot fly into flying. "
Those are some very vise words!

Asim :D

Edit: Oh, and one of those in the pic scoooby slayer posted !
fact is, my engine has run without problems for over a year. I just whine and moan about lots of little things, but A: I monitor my engine far more closely than most people and B: I am a perfectionist. You might see me post about some niggle, but the simple plain truth is that I've been making 600+bhp consistently since my car was finally done according to my explicit specifications.

So you can forget about your idiotic thoughts of my car falling apart all the time, ok? It is a thorough build with virtually nothing left undone - the oiling system alone can only be topped by a dry-sump system...maybe.

Reason for this post, Asim? I have mastered the 600bhp build. I know what it takes. I've mapped my own car. Lots of bits are overkill and could support a lot more power.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think the whole front drivetrain is weak and will never become stronger unless you replace the front ring and pinion with something BIG. That diff can't hold much and the driveshafts are not really the weak point. additionally you don't need more than 200 horses on the front wheels, so put those other 800 on the rear wheels. My 2 cents, not sure but just my guess :)
so you feel that even an aftermarket front differential cannot take the power?

I'm sure a torque split controller can do the limiting job. Instead of fixing the split ratio, let the ATTESA do what it wants up to a certain point, then limit the front torque, like a rev limiter.
 

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to drive 1000hp other than on dragstrips the major thing u'lll need is cubics...no 2 ways bout it...

if i had a big tree full of money, id probably go for one of those nissan patrol engines...5.0l or summat...and keep it 4wd...might need a big wide arch kit lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think you need to get someone else (RIPS) to build it for you....Your stats so far on engine/turbo life is not good!
just to clarify - neither my engine nor my turbos have failed. I've worried about them failing, I've blabbed about them, thinking they were about to fail, but my turbos have run 1.9 bars for over 20,000km now, so if they do pack it in, they've had a good run - race-level boost for three years!

I'm beginning to realize that some people must think my engine is breaking every two months. The reality is that it is fine, has been since it was finished. What I've come to realize is that I'm a mechanical hypochondriac. - if I see a single puff of smoke come out my tailpipe, I begin to moan about how my engine is about to let go!

But hell yes, if I went with a big power car, I'd have a specialist outside of Korea build the longblock. Either RIPS, or a major tuning house in Japan (a lot closer) like Top Secret or JUN.

Anyways, I'm remembering now, when I set my original power goal at 600bhp. It was based on information I had gleaned at the time about the limits of the drivetrain, the transmission, and specifically, the front differential.

1000bhp is all food for thought anyways; the toy budget is firmly committed to bikes for the next year or so. Another direction I might head is to build a full track car.
 

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so you feel that even an aftermarket front differential cannot take the power?

I'm sure a torque split controller can do the limiting job. Instead of fixing the split ratio, let the ATTESA do what it wants up to a certain point, then limit the front torque, like a rev limiter.
I can't see why that with a aftermarket front diff, the front drivetrain will not cope with it.....The big GTR drag cars make HEAPS more power that that and still run the factory housing. Sure, the drive shaft and half shafts may be upgraded, but other than that, It should be fine.

For the oil system (In fact the whole OS Giken RB30 was for sale!), Just buy this Toby:

GTR RB26DETT / RB30DETT Custom Drysump System. for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand
 

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LOL! Maybe more like this...."Come quietly, or there will be...Trouble!"

 

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Chris,

You must be thinking about one of these?





Asim :nervous:
That's the sort of thing!

I'm sure I read about some Scandinavian type putting a 1000bhp Lexus v8 into an Opel Omega trying to crack 350kph (or some such stupid speed).

Any more info on the above...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For the oil system (In fact the whole OS Giken RB30 was for sale!), Just buy this Toby:

GTR RB26DETT / RB30DETT Custom Drysump System. for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand
jeebus, for a second there I thought it was the complete engine up for sale for $3500!!

I've done every wet sump mod except the head drain (which I felt was unneeded plus I had some doubts about the drain into the sump - enough debate and questions for me to leave well alone), I mean every possible conceivable mod, based around a Tomei pump. I really thought it out and spent way more than $3500NZD on my oil system. When I'm on it, I'm rock steady over 8 bars of oil pressure, and when I lift and disengage the clutch, the oil pressure eases off due to the Accusump instead of dropping like a rock. If my engine ever packs it in due to oil starvation, I'm giving up cars and going to pedal bicycles!
 
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