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Dude...use the search button, It has been discussed a million times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
under what heading , cause i dont seem to get any joy with key words in the search,,,
 

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ive just done a search and cant find any.
i know there was a couple somewhere ?
anyways, when i spoke to tweenie about my engine build he said and i quote " if you dont want over 8000 rpm or 700 bhp from the bottom end then standard rods with tomei bolts will be fine"
 

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For future use, bookmark this:

site:www.gtr.co.uk/forum - Google Search

This will allow you to search the forum using google (enter search terms as normal, leaving a space after the text which appears in the search box). You can then use all the boolean operators etc., like + and - and "".

Anyway, standard rods are easily up to the job of 600 maybe more (cue lively discussions). What power are you going for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ive just done a search and cant find any.
i know there was a couple somewhere ?
anyways, when i spoke to tweenie about my engine build he said and i quote " if you dont want over 8000 rpm or 700 bhp from the bottom end then standard rods with tomei bolts will be fine"
i thought it was just me that cant found anythink from the search , good reply and thanks , i am only ever going to 500 bhp , so should not be a problem ,,, cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For future use, bookmark this:

site:www.gtr.co.uk/forum - Google Search

This will allow you to search the forum using google (enter search terms as normal, leaving a space after the text which appears in the search box). You can then use all the boolean operators etc., like + and - and "".

Anyway, standard rods are easily up to the job of 600 maybe more (cue lively discussions). What power are you going for?
tremendous pal , thanks for the link ,,, i am only going 500 bhp cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For future use, bookmark this:

site:www.gtr.co.uk/forum - Google Search

This will allow you to search the forum using google (enter search terms as normal, leaving a space after the text which appears in the search box). You can then use all the boolean operators etc., like + and - and "".

Anyway, standard rods are easily up to the job of 600 maybe more (cue lively discussions). What power are you going for?
just used your link , thanks so much it worked a treat ,,, cheers ronnie
 

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No worries; for some reason the search function on this forum is utter pants (always makes me laugh when people get told to search). I think it may be improved at some point in the future (I made a moan thread a while ago about it) but in the meantime using the power of google works just fine :D
 

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run whatever power you want on stock rods, as long as your map is good.
 

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run whatever power you want on stock rods, as long as your map is good.
That ain´t the case actually. Rods won´t take any abuse you give them as long as map is good. Main thing that kills them is rpm´s really. However they can fail due to other things too. Pistons though are an internal engine part that is very strongly connected to the quality of your map. Not saying that stock pistons will handle 1000bhp if map is good but they certainly can take quite some power/last quite long if your map is well balanced and not too agressive.
 

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Yea they are good. Still on stock rods for over 2 years now. Over 600 bhp reved to 8500 rpm and always used hard.

I thinks it a myth that they are weak.:chuckle:
 

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That ain´t the case actually. Rods won´t take any abuse you give them as long as map is good. Main thing that kills them is rpm´s really. However they can fail due to other things too. Pistons though are an internal engine part that is very strongly connected to the quality of your map. Not saying that stock pistons will handle 1000bhp if map is good but they certainly can take quite some power/last quite long if your map is well balanced and not too agressive.
I beg to differ. RPMs will cause the rod bolts to fail first in the RB26; upgrading those to ARP units is more or less mandatory. I've seen bent and snapped rods from all kinds of engines, but never a stock RB26 rod, and trust me, I've asked around and searched extensively. No pictures, no firsthand accounts of a truly broken or bent stock RB26 conrod.

To be fair, mine aren't 100% factory stock - they are balanced end-to-end and matched to each other within half a gram (a sheet of normal A4 printer paper weighs 5.5 grams). Throw in shot-peening and some people cryo-treat theirs, but all in all it adds up to far less expense than a new set of rods. And the only rods I'd ever use would have been balanced by hand and shot-peened - and such bespoke rods do cost an arm and a leg, and wouldn't get me any further than where I am now with my internals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I beg to differ. RPMs will cause the rod bolts to fail first in the RB26; upgrading those to ARP units is more or less mandatory. I've seen bent and snapped rods from all kinds of engines, but never a stock RB26 rod, and trust me, I've asked around and searched extensively. No pictures, no firsthand accounts of a truly broken or bent stock RB26 conrod.

To be fair, mine aren't 100% factory stock - they are balanced end-to-end and matched to each other within half a gram (a sheet of normal A4 printer paper weighs 5.5 grams). Throw in shot-peening and some people cryo-treat theirs, but all in all it adds up to far less expense than a new set of rods. And the only rods I'd ever use would have been balanced by hand and shot-peened - and such bespoke rods do cost an arm and a leg, and wouldn't get me any further than where I am now with my internals.
so were do you remove metal from the rod to get them all the same weight and who does the shot-peening and at what sort of cost ,, this is turning out a good thread ,,, cheers ronnie
 

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so were do you remove metal from the rod to get them all the same weight and who does the shot-peening and at what sort of cost ,, this is turning out a good thread ,,, cheers ronnie
get that done at a professional - not a home project. In terms of cost, they'll tell you when you ring them up!
 

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I beg to differ. RPMs will cause the rod bolts to fail first in the RB26; upgrading those to ARP units is more or less mandatory. I've seen bent and snapped rods from all kinds of engines, but never a stock RB26 rod, and trust me, I've asked around and searched extensively. No pictures, no firsthand accounts of a truly broken or bent stock RB26 conrod.

To be fair, mine aren't 100% factory stock - they are balanced end-to-end and matched to each other within half a gram (a sheet of normal A4 printer paper weighs 5.5 grams). Throw in shot-peening and some people cryo-treat theirs, but all in all it adds up to far less expense than a new set of rods. And the only rods I'd ever use would have been balanced by hand and shot-peened - and such bespoke rods do cost an arm and a leg, and wouldn't get me any further than where I am now with my internals.
Well I´m not doubting what your saying dude. My comment was actually more aimed at the second part of your post where you said "as long as your map is good". I know that standard rods can take lots of stress and that it´s common practice to upgrade the rod bolts to ARP ones etc because they are the more critical part out of both. I am just saying that your map won´t affect your rods too much, at least nowhere as much as it would affect parts like pistons etc. That´s simply due to the fact of the rods not being in the combustion chamber really and therefore not having to cope directly with the circumstances caused by the exact setup of your map (ignition, AFR, etc). Hope that clears it up better. And yes, you´re right, getting the whole bottom end balanced and weight matched does help a LOT to prevent and damage that is often caused on high(er) rpm.
 

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that's true, to an extent. Pistons bear the brunt of pinging and of course preignition - I've lost engines to both. But anyone who's had nitrous go wrong, or the 997 Turbo engine I once saw with a conrod bent 90 degrees, has encountered the other problem that a bad map can cause - severe knocking will create enormous combustion chamber pressures that can create enough downforce on a rod while the piston is on its upstroke to bend or break it. In that Porsche, all it took was a car that had a remapped ECU and the boost turned up....and the idiot then proceeded to run the car at 300+kph on non-premium pump fuel!!
 

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Well that´s a whole different story then.

I completely agree with you on the part of exceptional force being thrown on rods with things like preignition and therefore causing severe damage.

Regarding the guy with the Porsche it´s simple really - he´s a Porsche driver so what do you expect? ;)
 
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