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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,
I was just wondering how many people out there take the suspension mods futher then a set of coil overs?? And what sort of driving appeals to you?

My mods are as listed
Hks hyper max pro coli overs
Cusco upper camber arms front and rear
cusco pillow ball tenson rods
about 50% of the bushes have been replaced.

my car is mainy used street and circuit
 

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hard street/mild circuit is what I think I want. I currently have Teins in the front (I think they're street coilovers) and Mines/Ohlins in the rear. I have the damping set on max in back and about 2/3 up in the front. Also have a rear strut bar which I don't plan on removing.

I'd like to get pillow ball tension rods to tighten up the steering but the steering feel is really not all that bad. I'd only do adjustable camber arms to get my tires level and dial out the positive camber I've gotten from lowering my car. And since positive camber helps handling (although makes tramlining come out once in awhile), I think I'll just leave it.

One question that's been on my mind however is what bushes ought to be replaced and how would you know if it's needed? I figured that someday in the future I'd just rebuild the entire suspension with new bushes, but that's just a lame excuse for not knowing better - can someone enlighten me?

In terms of suspension tuning, I think there's a lot that can be done. Ride comfort aside, you don't want your car upset in bumpy turns, like the 'Ring or the streets of Seoul for that matter (sometimes I'll literally get launched into the air out of my seat from stiff springs), yet not roll appreciably and have good neutral balance overall, maybe a touch of oversteer to let the back hang out - mad tyte yo!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i have replaced all of the rear craddle bushes witn nolotec style plastic/rubber. It does not move under load or conering but the ride is a lot hasher. most of the other bushes have been done as well but only as the start to look slopey and i have time to change them.
 

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did you need to use a press to get the old bushes out or was it a straightforward and easy job?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We pressed them out but if you dont have a press you can use a bolt and a clamp, put the bolt through the bush do up the nut put the clamp over one end of the bolt and wind the clamp on to the arm or member that the bush is stuck in.
 

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dang, that's a good idea. I just got my rear ball joints in the mail (24 hours from Texas to Seoul Korea!!), and needed a good way to press those bad boys out. don't have a press but got clamps :)
 

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Eibach Pro triple adjustable remote reservoir race dampers all round, Eibach dual rate, dual springs all round, Nismo ARB.s front and rear, my own custom fully rose jointed front suspension, Nismo bushes throughout the rear suspension, and subframe, but soon to go to solid diff mounts, solid subframe mounts and full rose jointed rear suspension. I have made all my own braking system using Brembo Porsche Group C front calipers on AP floating discs on my own belss. Aston Martin DBR9 rear calipers on AP discs, on my own bells at the rear, my own custom dusal master cylinder, remote brake bias set up under the bonnet, with the front circuit servo assisted via a remote servo. I intend to fully cage the shell with a weld in multipoint cage, as it's as floppy as a wet paper bag at the moment. I also made my own HICAS removal bar, have no ABS and adjusted the amount of PAS with my own thicker quill shaft in the stock PAS rack. So at least one of us here plays with suspension and chassis kinematics.

Next year, finances permitting, I intend to reduce the rear bump steer, and do the cage, as well as complete and fit my new engine, and convert to a Borg Warner 5 speed dog box on a custom bellhousing. If anyone's interested sme pics are at ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv under likely sounding folders, as well as pics of some of the race cars I work on or own. Having my own machine shop, and being in the race car prepartaion game helps with these projects of course, but it's still a lot of time and money.
 

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Nice work Chris! I'll be picking your brains in the future!!

What diameter discs are you using, and wheels? I'm assuming it's an R32 GTR?
 

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Nice work Chris! I'll be picking your brains in the future!!

What diameter discs are you using, and wheels? I'm assuming it's an R32 GTR?

356 mm fronts, 330 mm rears, under 18 inch rims, 8 inch wide rear, 9 inch wide fronts, on a 95 R33 GTS-t. I used to run a 33 GTR as a track car, but they are just too heavy to appeal to me much. RWD and a lot of power is much more fun.

I am in Shropshire, so not a million miles from you!
 

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Chris that sounds like one tuf track car i like your style
It wasn't that tough when i stuck it into Old Hall's tyre wall at 120 + earlier in the year, in fact it was worryingly fragile ;) But thanks for the kind words, it's all fixed now, save for totally flat spotted Pirelli P-Zero Corsas, which were not at all old at the time :(
 

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ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/Skyline_Stuff/R33GTST_Wishbones/DSC01546.JPG
ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/Skyline_Stuff/R33GTST_Wishbones/DSC01547.JPG
ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/Skyline_Stuff/R33GTST_Wishbones/
Very clean Chris! I love seeing your fabrication work.

Catergorically, which components/suspension links in front and rear suspension/chassis benefit from being rose jointed? (32GTR)?

And how does each component then rose jointed, affect the way the car drives?

I want to look into each part of the suspension and identifying what can be done to make it drive the way I want.
Wouldn't mind opportunity in New Year for you to show me underneath your 33 the suspension links you have modified, and why you have done so.
 
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