Hi Simon,
I use 10w60, although I would like to use 10w50.....but we've discussed this before, I know you have it available, I just need to make an order.

 

I have use 0-40 in mobil 1 as oilman says it is a true synthetic and should remain stable .

 

I've been using Silkolene Pro R 15w50 when I change it......don't know what Abbey put in it though.

 

I normally use Mobile 1 motorsport 15-50w, but as of last week am trying for the first time Valvoline 15-50w turbo oil to see if its OK.

I've tried the 0 and 10 oils in the past and they seem to get used up, the heavier 15/50s tend to not do this in my (limited) experience!
T

 

been running valvoline vr1 5w50, still seems reasonably clean after 1400 miles

 

MOTUL 300V

15 w 50 fully synthetic that's what abbey's supply me with.

 

10-50 or 10-60 generally (synthetic, not cause i swear by it, but because its just what it is), but im talking big boost turbo cars used VERY hard with 200-300bhp per litre rather than almost standard ones.

 

76

Ant has run my car on 20w/50......racing 76 synthetic....
so this is what i am going to continue using as it runs well on it......

nice and thick

 

I have use 0-40 in mobil 1 as oilman says it is a true synthetic and should remain stable .

a few forum searches before i changed my oil revealed this stuff to be a bad idea??

 

A vote for 10-W60 here. Not sure why I use it, but a few people in the know have recommended it, including some tuners, so I ain't gonna argue.

Just to clarify, would that mean its 10 weight, (thinnish), when hot, and 60 weight, (thicker), when cold?

Wouldn't it ideally want to be slightly thinner when the engine is cold to get through the galleries easily, and then get a bit thicker when hot to lubricate well. I know this is probably impossible, (as most liquids are thicker when cold), so would you not want the numbers to be closer together, like 20-W30 or something?

And while I'm going off on one about oil, is it that important to prime a new oil filter before fitting, surely it won't make that much difference to the time it takes the oil to get around the block?

 

60's

a good viscosity for the RB is either 15w-50 or 10w-50 fully synthetic, changed every 3000 miles. any higher than 50 weight oil and your tryin to convince yourselves your turbo's arnt fooked!!!!

stick to a high quality oil thats the right grade, preferbly somethin with a high film strength like silkolene pro-r series oils, or morris, and some of the havoline products.

id personnally stay away from anything that said Mob*l 1 on it, cause iv'e heard such rude reports!!

cheers,
mark r..

 

Mostly I have been using Silkolene Pro R 15w50 Looks like power steering fluid though

 

a few forum searches before i changed my oil revealed this stuff to be a bad idea??

Trouble is looking at forum searches on oil would reveal all oil to be bad ,depends on opinion ,thinner is better for cold starts and mobil 1 is stable .I think after about 1000 miles 0-40 is in better nik than a lot of other so called fully synethetics,depends also how often you change it.Another point to look at is the stability and the heat range range is very simalar to Silkoline

 

Motul 300V Chrono (10W-40). Been using it since engine rebuild and never looked back

 

As recceomended by Nismo for street use I've been using Nismo Veruspeed 10W60 GT-R Racing oil. I've also tried the more expensive ester based 15W50, which is going back in my engine next week. All good. Also tried the Motul 300V but it so overpriced here in Japan

 

i prefer the 10W-30 fully non-synthetic. it is real cheap. Just kidding , i also use Nismo Veruspeed 10W60 GT-R Racing oil, but perhaps thinking about a 15-50. I do not allways race my car, right now it is for everyday driving. But i have to be prepared for battle in a moments notice.

Had a friend put some used cooking oil in a small truck
It worked, for a little bit, but then it started to smell like fried chicken. Took it to the mechanic and was told something wrong with motor to make the oil look like that! He did not tell him what he did, as it was a Government Vehicle. He only did it cause the person in charge of the vehicles would not supply him with him oil.
Talk about a massive overhaul! True story.

 

Can anyone explain why 0W/50 or 5W/50 cold weights are a bad idea on our cars?
I would of thought the hot weight would be the most important during normal running.
Is to do with the old SAE oil clasification?
Is it because the older oils were not stable over the whole heat range?
Basically is there any good reason why 0W/50 or 5W50 should not be used instead of 15W50 (the poll leader)?

 

I use 20w-50 76 racing oil - fully synthetic. Great stuff and not silly money either.

Ant.

 

Can anyone explain why 0W/50 or 5W/50 cold weights are a bad idea on our cars?
I would of thought the hot weight would be the most important during normal running.
Is to do with the old SAE oil clasification?
Is it because the older oils were not stable over the whole heat range?
Basically is there any good reason why 0W/50 or 5W50 should not be used instead of 15W50 (the poll leader)?

The way I see it 0w-40 and 5w-50 can be too thin unless the oil is a complete fully synthetic ,somin to do with not being a hydrocracked or whatever ,if it is a proper synthetic ,ie Mobil 1 should be a good oil in a good engine.Thats the way I interperated it from Oilman ,I'm sure Simon will corect me if I have this wrong

 

The way I see it 0w-40 and 5w-50 can be too thin unless the oil is a complete fully synthetic ,somin to do with not being a hydrocracked or whatever ,if it is a proper synthetic ,ie Mobil 1 should be a good oil in a good engine.Thats the way I interperated it from Oilman ,I'm sure Simon will corect me if I have this wrong

I see it the same way if it is fully synthetic 0w makes sense for cold starting.
I use 15w50 fully synthetic because I was told too but I dont know why its better than 0W50?

 

I use Morris Ultralife Competition 10w50, always used it in bikes and never had a problem. I was reccomended it by a mechanic who worked for Honda's superbike team, he said they were supposed to use Honda's own oil, but they used Morris because it was better than anything else out there, good enough for me then!!!

 

The way I understand is that the 0w part of eg 0w40 is the cold weight ie at 0 degrees? or normal ambient temp. and at 100 degrees it thickens to 40w oil . I may be wrong. what is the deal with mobil 1? suppose to by good fully synthetic oil. why dont many people use it? why doesnt oil man reccomend it even though he sells it?

I can get hold some mobil1 5w50 at about 22 quid for 4 litres.

 

Thats a bloody good price Yunis

 

Thats a bloody good price Yunis

yeah, ill visiting france in the next few weeks so will try and get some while im there, and motul 300 is about 14 quid for 2 litres so will stock up on some of those too.....

ripp off britain, in just about everything!!

 

Hi,

I use Redline Extreeme streetperformance 15w50.
I did always use Motul 300v 15w50 for my tuned Gsx-r 1216 and that was a very good oil.
rb26.