[legalr33]

I'm doing a 500 whp build on my R33 GTR.

2530s, cams, metal gaskets, fuel, 100 octane tune, all intake and exhaust upgrades and etc.

At what point should someone seriously consider replacing Main Stud, Head Stud and Con Rod Bolts?

I'm having the motor and head removed from the car.

Thanks in advance.

 

[donk_316]

Id do it when ever i had it apart, no matter what level of power im at.

 

[R.I.P.S NZ]

Maybe the con-rod bolts but I have done many many engines well over 500whp and not replaced any of the bolts without problems.
Definatly don't need to do mains or head bolts IMO. Spend the money on a real good tune.

 

[Cord]

Without any shadow of a doubt you need to do the conrod bolts. head and mains aren't needed, so it's up to you.

 

[legalr33]

Very well then. Thanks for the advice. I will order some ARP or Tomei con rod bolts and save my money on the main and head studs.

Thanks again.

 

[NISFAN]

They are hardly expensive, so I would do the lot at any stage. You should be buying a new set of stock bolts anyway, and being in the US, ARP are probably quite cheap for you.

 

[drewby]

Hi

Hi, gord, you well, are you going to donning, sunday, So what is the limit of the STD rod bolts, = new one.s on the GTR, cheers. D

 

[legalr33]

Having an issue finding the ARP con rod bolt part# for the RB26DETT R33.

Anyone have this handy?

Thanks in advance.

 

[donk_316]

1863 Eastman Avenue
Ventura, CA 93003
Hours: 7:30am - 4:30 pm PST
email: [email protected]

Order Desk & Technical Support: 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200, fax: 805.650.0742


Sales & Marketing: 800.826.3045

 

[legalr33]

Wonderful. Thanks!

 

[RocK]

i heard ARP studs do not screw all the way in the block. its short. is this true?
if it doesn't sit all the way in, its wont be solid.

hope someone use ARP before and can confirm this true or false. cuz im looking at ARP myself too.
Thanks..

 

[NISFAN]

i heard ARP studs do not screw all the way in the block. its short. is this true?
if it doesn't sit all the way in, its wont be solid.

hope someone use ARP before and can confirm this true or false. cuz im looking at ARP myself too.
Thanks..

They have a widened shoulder that bottoms out and pre loads the thread.

 

[ATCO]

Definitely do the rod bolts every time its apart. Even consider putting new shells in with WPC coating. Use JUN, or even better Tomei for top end. For peace of mind I'd change the lot as at least you know what the baseline then is.
DaveG

 

[RocK]

This is what my tuner recommend.

Main: Jun racing stud (1mm oversize from std)
Head: Tomei

They never used ARP before with RB, so no data for them..

 

[Cord]

Stick with Tomei allround, I wouldn't use Jun(k) if they were the last bolt on earth.

 

[legalr33]

I heard bad about JUN bolts, but good with JUN oil pump.

Off topic, but wondering if ATI Damper is a worthy buy.

 

[RocK]

Stick with Tomei allround, I wouldn't use Jun(k) if they were the last bolt on earth.

hmm, when the HKS tuner was in town, and 1 of the GTR with JUN studs. the 1st thing he ask before he started to tune, he requested to re-toque the head studs.

so no to JUN, TRUST
how about ARP vs TOMEI ?

 

[Cord]

In my experience, nothing wrong with Trust, have used many ARP rod bolts and these are fine, it's just Jun(k) that is worth avoiding.

 

[gary]

I

Think you are out of order calling JUN, junk,That sort of catogorises the whole company and thats wrong, you wouldent like it.

JUN make a lot of good things.

 

[Cord]

I've used a few different Jun fasteners (head studs and conrod bolts being 2 of them) and both have proven to be distintly lack lutsre, both in terms of material and manufacture. In my opinion they are quite definataley Jun(k). But I'm not saying that EVERYTHING they make is rubbish (come to think of it their camshaft grinding leaves a lot to be desired as well!)

But they do make some good stuff as well.