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As per the title really, on a track day which tyres take the biggest pounding? Front or rears?

I have a set of part work 285 bridgestones and if I do decide to do a track event, then I am wondering which axle to fit them too.
 

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thanks for the info. My car is lowered a fair bit and both part worns are virtually brand new on the outside edge and almost down to the wire on the inside edge.

They came off the back, so if I get the chance I will run these on the front and will get a feel for what 285 square set up is like (on the bridgestones anyway) whilst burning out these part worns.

From what you say, it makes me think there is sense in rotating the tyres front to rear on a 285 square set up which would result in added tyre life / more even ware
 

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As per the title really, on a track day which tyres take the biggest pounding? Front or rears?

I have a set of part work 285 bridgestones and if I do decide to do a track event, then I am wondering which axle to fit them too.
Depends on the day, the temp, how hard you drive / brake, whether you throw the car in and drive it out of a corner etc. etc.

Also, depends on if clockwise or anti-clockwise circuit, but suffice to say most are clockwise so near side tyres usually get a pounding!
 

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Ah, also depends on if you have any negative camber set as well !!

A square set up running 285's at each corner ?? That should be interesting :)
 

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Heres mine after a few runs at North Weald a week or so ago.

Very rough airfield track though. The rears didnt suffer as badly.



Probably needed more pressure in them as well judging by the scuff marks well over the wear indicator!

Shopping for tyres today :(
 

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You guys are not running enough Dynamic Camber. This can be fixed with the Lichfield suspension arms. I now run A lot of Caster which in turn gives me up to -6Degrees of Dynamic Camber. No more scrubbed tyre edges.
 

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For the Road -1.5 > 2.0 is a good number. However with running more caster, when I turn the wheel it gives me dynamic camber, which as 1/4 of a steering wheel turn turns my -2.0 into -3.5. More turn can apply up to -6Degrees - Great for low speed tight turns

Dynamic Castor arms from Litchfield are the way to go to give you the best of both worlds.

See here: Nissan GTR Handling Upgrades - Litchfield Motors

 

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Thanks.
BTW, it's not for a GT-R. ;)
Same principle applies to any car really. The arms do need to be setup, but for sure DC is the best way for both worlds. Of course for a race only car, its static with less moving parts.

Another alternative would be to use adjustable top mounts and buy a camber guage.
 
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