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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hi havent really posted in a while, a turbo let go on my gtr33 some months ago and have been too busy to sort it out!! i was really happy with the car before so dont want to mess it about too much current engine spec is as follows;

trust fmic
kakimoto downpipes and fully straight through n1+ apparently
ROM of which make i cannot remember..ran 1.4 bar no prob
greddy filter and hard pipes
blitz dual SBC
earls oil cooler

I plan to do the following while the engine is out (50k miles all in very good condition)

R34 N1 turbos (already purchased)
N1 big ends and main bearings
N1 oil pump
new set of piston rings
MHG
tomei tubular manifols
tomei turbo outlets
fuel pressure regulator
bee r rev limiter


I have been told i should do cams aswell althought i know this can be done while the engine is in....its far easier while its out! but the car ran so well before..was hitting 1.3bar at 2650rpm!!! and never skipped a beat in anyway. the same goes for injectors and engine management... its all very well but i dont want it to ruin such a well put together car.

As i said the car ran 1.4 bar before no problems, unfortunately i never got it dyno tested etc so dont know what power.... ran 11.6 at pod on cheap tyres. Will be happy runnign 1.3bar on the new setup so presume i wont need bigger injectors? as the new turbos are the same except for the exhaust housing, exhaust wheel and bb? is that right?!?

I will happily go down the hks fcon route or other if need be but will i actually benefit?

any thoughts and advice would be much appreciated as always

jamie
 

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If you havent already, change those pesky inlet manifold gaskets, nightmare getting the plenum off with the engine it situe :)
 

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you'll want to add N1 water pump, cambelt and idle tensioners, and complete uprated gaskets for everything. 1.4bar with stock injectors?? Mine maxed out at 1.1bar, some Sard 700cc units took care of that. Uprated conrod bolts are a must.

Otherwise, I wouldn't mess with the tune too much if you were really happy with it. Tomei Poncams are an easy bolt in affair, but the stock cams are pretty racy themselves and do a decent job (they were after all designed from the outset for racing). I installed the Bee*R limiter but I've more or less found it useless, as it sends my Power FC knock readings through the roof when it engages (knock of 117 was the highest I got...talk about sweating bullets!)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the help...,

why is it necerssary for an N1 water pump? the water temp has never risen above the normal temperature once warm?

I did plan to put an upgraded cambelt on, but had no idea about tensioners? why is this? Same with the gaskets, i will get new gaskets with the manifolds and turbo elbows, plus new plenum gaskets and mhg...will standard nissan not do? or whatever comes with the new bits? what other gasket is there that need upgrading?

Maybe they are not stock injectors then? although cant see how this would work. I use to run 1.4bar no problem for some time and it definately only has an upgraded rom in the ecu.

If i upgraded my injectors would i need upgraded enginemangment or a piggy back ecu? or can i keep what i have?


appreciate the help

regards
 

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Water pump

Improved flow. The RB26 loves being cooled properly.

Get a Tomei sump baffle kit in there. While you're at it, add 600cc injectors and a Tomei fuel pump. They'll be fine on the stock fuel rail.

Since you're messing with the fuelling & boost, get an HKS F-Con SZ piggybacked on the ROM for fuelling & ignition control. Better safe than wrecked.

I would personally recommend and HKS Circle Earth kit and Splitfire Direct Ignition system. Evens out the electricals and gets rid of those shite Nissan coil packs.
 

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you should think of water pumps like timing belts - wear items that need replacing at regular intervals.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
update, finally gotten round to ordering all my bits!! Slight change of plan, in the end i ordered the following due to arrive shortly;

Piston rings
N1 big ends/ mains
MHG
Kevlar cambelt
Tomei conrod bolt set
Mines turbo elbows
Valve guide seals
Loads of gaskets!

Just need a fuel pressure reg, a bee r limiter and a short shifter!

Having spoken to RB i dont think its worth it to me perosnally to go past 1.2 bar as its going to cost alot for little benefit. So having the oil pump measured for wear etc etc

Should be back on the road in a few weeks, cant wait!!!
 
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