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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys. I am in the process of changing my broken stock clutch out for a Carbonetics/ATS Across clutch. Obviously it will come with the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. However I figured that while I had the crap apart I might as well do everything down there all at once. Any information or suggestions that you guys can give will be greatly appreciated.

While in there I plan to:

Bleed the ATTESSA System (obviously)
Put in Redline Shock Proof Fluid
???


btw, I am shooting for about 750WHP, I dont know if that makes a difference in what I should do down there. Thx.


-Sayajin
 

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Strip and clean the start motor could be a good idea.
 

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btw, I am shooting for about 750WHP, I dont know if that makes a difference in what I should do down there. Thx.
Hmmm, is that a typo ? It'll take a heck of a lot more than 'Redline Shockproof' to keep the gearbox together with 750HP @ the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmm, is that a typo ? It'll take a heck of a lot more than 'Redline Shockproof' to keep the gearbox together with 750HP @ the wheels.
Nope it wasnt one. Thats the reason I am posting up here. What do you suggest I put in there? Also keep in mind that this is a work in progress upgrade, Im not going to get it back with 750WHP, it will probabaly take me a few months in order to acheive this much power. Suggestions?


-Sayajin
 

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1. Change Gearbox.
2. Remember redline needs to be warmed up before trying any slick gearchanges.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1. Change Gearbox.
2. Remember redline needs to be warmed up before trying any slick gearchanges.
Cool. What gearboxes do you guys Recommend. I have heard good things about the OS Giken, except for the cost of course. Also is Redline the recommended tranny fluid or would you guys use something else?


-Sayajin
 

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depends on what you are going to use the car for as this will determine the choice for the box more than anything else
 

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Discussion Starter #8
depends on what you are going to use the car for as this will determine the choice for the box more than anything else
Well I DEFINETLY DONT want to go with a dogbox setup. This is going to be a damn near daily street driven vehicle. However, I will be doing a large share of racing in it, as well as I shift VERY hard even in daily driving. Suggestions? Also if you could list approximate costs for each setup that would be quite helpful as well.


-Sayajin
 

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Discussion Starter #11
when you say racing do you mean drag strip? circuit? sprint? how often etc
Probably a good bit of drag as well as sprint racing. Probabaly not as much circuit although a few guys are trying to get me into SCCA (sp?) Also probably a few times a week as far as frequency goes.


ps, where can I find the rear seal from so I can do that at the same time?


-Sayajin
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well truthfully I will probably have to hold off on the gearbox/gearset until the next time. Right now I just cant justify the extra $2k+ to spend on it. (meaning I cant afford it! LOL)

I guess I was really asking about other things from a relatively cost effective standpoint. Any other suggestions? I have been told so far to:

Change the rear main seal
switch to SS Braided lines
Upgrade to Nismo Slave Cylinder (why?)

I understand all of the other stuff with the exception of switching to the Nismo slave cylinder. What would be the performance benifit of switching out my slave cylinders?

Thanks guys.


-Sayajin
 

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Upgrade to Nismo Slave Cylinder (why?)

I understand all of the other stuff with the exception of switching to the Nismo slave cylinder. What would be the performance benifit of switching out my slave cylinders?
The high HP twin/triple plate clutches use a pressure plate with a higher pressure rating to provide a higher clamping force, one reason which allows more torque to be transmitted.

The upshot of this is that the clutch pedal is harder to push down, the bigger piston of the nismo cylinder will 'push' with a higher force for a given pressure. Im not sure exactly how much bigger it is, though I think its around 10% bigger piston area than standard-so would make the pedal 10% 'easier' to push down :)
 
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