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Are Hks 2510's what I want?

2.6K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  JTJUDGE  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi guys. Just after abit of advice really. I have an R33 GTR and as far as I know it has all standard internals. When I brought the car I was told it had steel internal upgrades on the standard turbos but last week I dropped the downpipe of and got my borascope in there and this is not true, still has the dreaded ceramics :chairshot: . The reason being I'm going to be having it mapped as soon as I have decided what to do with the turbos. It's got a power fc on it but don't no who mapped it but I'm not that happy with it. Sometimes it feels boggy when coming back onto boost, so I would rather have it checked/tuned to make sure it's running as good as it can and smooth as it can and it's not trying to punch holes in my standard chocolate pistons. So my question is, is it worth me putting a set of Hks 2510 on it? I don't want massive power but a nice 350-400whp would be nice and fairly responsive. Are the 2510 a direct bolt on with only little things as oil restrictions and oil returns? Or is there more to it than this? What other supporting mods will I need for this power? Does fuel need upgrading? Will it be ok on standard internals? Thanks for your help in advance much appreciated.

Sorry last thing, what is the garret equivalent of the 2510's? Is it the -7? -9?
 
#2 ·
Hi

Problem is that what you are told is not always the case when buying the car and it is hard to check internals with out a borascope.

HKS2510 are suppose to be rated for around 580bhp, but they are pretty old turbos, so finding a new or very good pair would be harder. They are pretty much the same as the 2530 on the compressor side, but turbine trim, 62T vs 76T of the 2530's so would imagine them to make boost earlier but lack a bit on top end.

On a standard engine something responsive like a -7 or a -9 and around 500bhp should be fine, they are drop in turbos and you would need a 0.8mm restrictor bolt, also need to get bigger injectors and the ECU remapped by someone who knows what they are doing.
 
#9 ·
According to them they can be as long as it's just the turbine shaft and wheel your replacing but at that cost you have no idea how long the bearings will last so it's not worth it in the end I rebuilt my oem 33 ones for steel wheels with balancing under ÂŁ300 and they're bang on granted they don't spool quite as quick as the 34 but they're a damn site cheaper
 
#11 ·
Hi mate. I have just finished the same upgrades if you look at my project thread will go into abit more detail. I managed to get 370 wheel hp at 1.1 bar of boost on steel tubs. U could go as far as 1.4 bar but exhaust temps are creeping up at that sort of boost and standard tubs are maxed out. If you go for steel tubs u will need to replace head gasket and inlet gaskets with all multi layered steel ones before going over 1 bar of boost as stardard ones can't handle any more and there no point going steel tubs unless ur going for over a bar IMHO. U will not need to upgrade pump or injectors at that sort of power so keeps the costs down and with that set up really nice and resposive and hopefully reliable. If u need any more help drop me a pm or I'm sure Daz will be happy to answer son questions as well. My upgrades are exhaust (standard elbows), Inlet, split fire coils, upgraded plugs, steel tubs, multi layered head gasket and inlets, power fc, intercooler, alloy rad. Hope this helps matt
 
#13 ·
Can't see how mapping can change it? Ur doubling cylinder pressures from standard 0.7 to 1.4 so ur better changing it before u blow it and risk overheat or warping head. That's just my opion but can see were ur coming from mate. Depends on engine really don't it. Just ur half way there once the tubs are of and I lets to change gaskets