I would say no as you are stationary with the engine just idling. The engine oil pressure is equally low. Does it rise when the revs rise ?

 

thanks for your proper anwser chris,

yes it will rise when I push the throttle.

Could you post your photo of your TM oil pressure at idle?

On idle the video I have posted is far higher than mine on idle.

and this one was made for me just to compare his 2008 and mine same model.



Maybe the TM oil is on low level?
Maybe a service with pentosin ffl4?

e.g.
Do I need to look for a TM oil pump?

 

wow.... do you have the flying car option?!?!? CARWINGS?!!!!!

 

Just SATNAV and some extras they call it carwings.:runaway::clap::blahblah:

 

Just from the photos I see that the other car has a lower engine temperature, your seems to be about 13 deg higher so I would imagine you had been driving which in turn would mean that the tranny temp in yours was probably higher too? If so your higher tranny temp at idle (when warm) would mean a slightly lower pressue owing to the change in oil viscosity, the other car seems to be cooler eng temp so could assume that car was either ticking over or driven less and thus tranny would be colder, giving different viscosity (when cold) and increasing pressure. Just an observation though with assumptions, would have been good to have the tranny temperatures on yours to compare.

 

thanks for your kindness,

I have on Preset 1 the TM oil temp see below:



Probably refill for ffl4 I guess.

And car was idling around 26 minutes in 'N' from 9C water 8C oil and 8C TM. Not driven because today is wintersleep awake.:clap:

 

goodevening sirs,

The pressure of the TM oil? Please see photo below.

Just found out 20 min. ago.

Will this be a problem?



YouTube - GTR???????????????? < at 0.04 his pressure at idle is higher than mine?

Will this need a oil replacement?

I would expect at least 2 bars of pressure as a minimum, Nissan do not show an absolute pressure on this gauge as it could be misleading, does the car drive OK?

 

thanks for your reply amb. of gtroc,

the car drives ok with aggressive and normal driving.

but my friends car was tested on mode 'P'.

And mine on mode 'N'.

Will this make some difference?

I never tried LC on the car because it has LC1. waiting for cobb to turn down to 3k or less.

but as soon as I drive the car the pressure goes up around 35%.

but at idle it's almost in the red zone. I hope it's not a gearbox failure because of a tm oil pump, short on oil or anything else specific.

Benji_linney_gtc what do you think of this gearbox condition?

 

Thanks again for your reply,

How to replace TM oil? because this is first time for me.

What oil? FFL-4?

Probably degraded oil because this is the first time I am going to change it.

 

http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/TransmissionFluidGTR.pdf

 

Looked at mine this morning on the way to work and cold or warm is idles between bar 4 and 5.

Obviously without a scale on the display it is a bit difficult to say what the pressure is ! Mine is an MY09 Non Nav BTW.

 

Thank you for your helpful reply,

Please post photo here as I will compare it with mine.

 

I want to remove the oil sump aswell to clean the magnets but, where can I buy a sump gasket, TM oil filter and what tools exactly?

Replacing the following parts:
***8226; New OEM Nissan transmission drain plug
***8226; New OEM Nissan transmission fill plug gasket
***8226; quality aftermarket fluid (using FFL-4)(9L)

Tools needed:
***8226; 10mm socket
***8226; 12mm socket
***8226; Rachet
***8226; 5mm allen socket
***8226; 10mm allen socket
***8226; 3***8221; socket extension

Do I also need a oil pump to fill the gearbox?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SELF-PRIMING-...UEL-/150569328867?pt=UK_Sports_Leisure_Cycling_BikePumps_SR&hash=item230ea1a0e3

 

I want to remove the oil sump aswell to clean the magnets but, where can I buy a sump gasket, TM oil filter and what tools exactly?

Replacing the following parts:
***8226; New OEM Nissan transmission drain plug
***8226; New OEM Nissan transmission fill plug gasket
***8226; quality aftermarket fluid (using FFL-4)(9L)

Tools needed:
***8226; 10mm socket
***8226; 12mm socket
***8226; Rachet
***8226; 5mm allen socket
***8226; 10mm allen socket
***8226; 3***8221; socket extension

You should get away without having to change the gasket, I did buy one the first time I did this job but found out later they can be reused a number of times with issue as they are a metal gasket with a special coasting.

You can get the gasket and sealing washer from any Nissan dealer (to order) if you really want them or from Speed for Sale in the US which works out cheaper, not sure if the OEM filter(s) are sold separately but there are aftermarket ones at Speed for Sale as well.

I normally reverse flush my primary filter and have not removed the secondary one as yet. The job may seem a little daunting but it is more time consuming than difficult, but the first time you do it can be a little scary I guess

BTW, you should really join the GTROC as a full member as I normally reserve the good technical stuff for them only!

 

Yes I will buy asap. but where to buy a oil pump?

btw I will hook my COBB up on the car as it has arrived today.

 

I would hold off purchasing an oil pump until you know it is that for sure, I believe Dodson offer a blueprinted pump for around $750, the Cobb will not help you in the least with this matter apart from reading any errors codes and as you warning lap is not on I suspect there will be none to find.

 

Why dont you get a professional to look at it first and test it if possible.

 

Chris: Already did and said replace oil and clean magnets.

arcam
16l Fasspumpe Handpumpe Kurbelpumpe Umfüllpumpe *NEU* bei eBay.de: Pumpen (endet 08.04.11 14:06:31 MESZ)

or
http://cgi.ebay.de/Ol-Heizol-Diesel...spumpe-Umfullpumpe-Pumpe-Handbetrie-/260706549859?pt=Pumpen&hash=item3cb3524063

this one can lift liquid up to 5 meters.

I would like to have a mechnical pump rather than electric as one already failed and cost me over 100 quid.

 

Chris: Already did and said replace oil and clean magnets.

arcam
16l Fasspumpe Handpumpe Kurbelpumpe Umfüllpumpe *NEU* bei eBay.de: Pumpen (endet 08.04.11 14:06:31 MESZ)

or
Öl Heizöl Diesel Fasspumpe Umfüllpumpe Pumpe Handbetrie bei eBay.de: Pumpen (endet 10.04.11 14:50:43 MESZ)

this one can lift liquid up to 5 meters.

I would like to have a mechnical pump rather than electric as one already failed and cost me over 100 quid.

Stop dicking around already!

Neither of those pumps are suitable, I had an electric one as well and was a right pain, the mechanical SafeOil one is excellent and is designed for this job, check out Opie Oil's site Oil Safe Fluid Defense Systems

 

over two weeks the bridge will be bolted then I can work on my car.

at 0.41 I got a transmission fault on my instrument panel.

 

leaking rear differential?



rest of the underside.



BURNT TM oil.

TM sump.

[/URL]

TM fill port.

 

It looks like a drive shaft seal have blown and not a leaking diff as such .. although the oil does come from there. Pretty corroded underneath but that is again to be expected on a car of your age, I think Nissan could have used better quality paints of those exposed surfaces along with better plated bolts!

Make sure you replace this Diff drain and fill bung seals as that front one looked list it was weeping.

It will be interesting to see the inside shots of your TM sump and magnets.

 

how to repair this blown seal?

Or let it be as it is.

The last owner never washes his car as he thinks that this aluminum body is anti rust! Negligence of the last owner.

I am trying to remove rust and respray it with tar.

Will be replacing oil around 15/5.

front differential drain bolt is only front rust bolt washer itself is perfect.

removing rust.....

 

also my engine pressure has less than 1.9 bar.

around 1.6 bar

replace engine oil or any defects?

ffl-4 next change in 10k?

 

Well you should be replacing the engine oil and filter, has this car seen any maintenance? If you don't exceed 115c on the tranny then the FFL4 should last longer, but as it is so cheap it would not do any harm in replacing it early.

 

(Bullo @ Sep 28 2008, 11:56 PM) *
Either we is US got better built cars (which would be a joke to assume) or we are just better drivers. I have not heard of a single person around here in the midwest/northeast who has had transmission problems.......


It's obvious you are a n00b when i comes to these cars so let me fill you in.
Early vin JDM cars had a common fault with oil pump in the transmission failing causing the box to get no oil, hence failure.
So yes, USDM are better built than the early JDM cars if you consider this fault.

Better drivers? That is just retarded, what does that have to do with gearbox failure?

A elderly lady could drive this car, it's point and shoot,Yes it's very fast but it's quite a disconnected experience.

...

So I also have the tm oil pump failure?!

 

Who knows, I have no experience of a TM Oil Pump failure, I would still drop the sump and clean out the filter(s) and refill with FFL4 and see what happens.

 

Just got my TM sump + oil dropped.

Seems the car gave me chills when the TM lamp went on.

Only in 2nd gear and A mode

TM:
P0797
P0216

Hard resetted twice and gone.

And now A1-A2 and 1M and 2M possible again.

Probably forgot to put car in N as I set to 1M for some long time (burned/jammed clutch).

Some photos:

Before drainage:


Draining:



Draining seen from distance::runaway:



Draining seen from underside car::clap:



TM sump removed (even solenoids on the filter):



More closely (look on the filter which I removed one mark of solenoids):



Magnets before cleaning:



Dirty magnets :runaway:



For your comparison clean magnet v.s. dirty magnet:



Closeup:



Magnets,sump and gasket cleaned:

I used hand wash antiseptic (contains Isopropyl,Butanediol) to clean the sump,magnets and gasket.

 

Just got my TM sump + oil dropped.

Seems the car gave me chills when the TM lamp went on.

Only in 2nd gear and A mode

TM:
P0797
P0214 or P0216 (can't remember)

Hard reset it twice and gone.

And now A1-A2 and 1M and 2M possible again.

Probably forgot to put car in N as I set to 1M for some long time (burned/jammed clutch).

And I was testing the LC to confirm for sure which one I had and seems to be the LC2.

Some photos:

Before drainage:


Draining:



Draining seen from distance::runaway:



Draining seen from underside car::clap:



TM sump removed (even solenoids on the filter):



More closely (look on the filter which I removed one mark of solenoids):



Magnets before cleaning:



Dirty magnets :runaway:



For your comparison clean magnet v.s. dirty magnet:



Closeup:



Magnets,sump and gasket cleaned:

I used hand wash antiseptic (contains Isopropyl,Butanediol) to clean the sump,magnets and gasket.



TM oil will be arriving next week. 20L FFL-4.

I did bend the plug gasketring a little but, will be that a problem?

By removing the sump my floor was under the TM oil (eek!).

Cleaning up today as my repair was in the night and it is now 5.00am I need to go to bed.

Tomorrow cleaning up floor and removing filter and valve body.

 

Goos job mate thanks for the photos, keep them coming interested to see the valve body and filter removal, looks like the cleaning of the magnets is a worthy job, they looked like they had a nice coating of particles.

 

When you say "I did bend the plug gasketring a little but, will be that a problem?" is that the sump gasket for drain plug? If it is the gasket and it have not kinked it you should be OK, I would replace the drain bung as it is only 80p from a dealer and it is the only way you can get the correct washer.

The oil looked pretty sha**ed, the coating on the magnets looks pretty normal considering you have not changed the oil or dropped the sump before.

 

The ring is little bend as I forgot there was a torx inside the drain tube.

I have bend back and closes perfectly. I can't take the ring off.



Removed rear diff and removing front diff oil now. Any instructions?

 

I have plenty of those rings but I can't get it off. Shall I break the ring then?

 

No, buy a NEW bung!!! --- 80p from a dealer!!!

 

LOL! This link may come in handy:

It’s the Little Things | Andrex Toilet Tissue Rolls

 

My HEX bolt on valve body failed. Do I need to buy another one? One of the six hexes broke. can be put back but not torque more than 1/16.

 

fixed with Allen bolt 6.0x45 exactly same fitting. 8.8 spec.

17p from b&Q.

 

My magnets are not like this at least:

http://www.r35club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2729&d=1269465985

 

Valve body check+cleanup (done same day as tm oil draining):

First and second gear look like this: